Orange Blossom

Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

MoodScent4 Project: Wedding Guest Fragrances Pick the Perfect Scent To Your Outfit

Welcome to MoodScent4!

We are four perfume bloggers based in France, Holland, England and Wales who post on a different joint subject every couple of months. This time we have chosen Wedding Guest Fragrances as June is the wedding month.  You will find links to the other blogs at the end of the post. We hope you have fun reading our different choices and adding your own in the comments.

My choices were inspired by wedding guest outfits. I have matched them to fragrances. The outfits I chose are the Cocktail Dress, Gala Dress, Chanel Tweed Jacket/Formal Suits, Informal Jeans and Barefoot at the Beach Dress.

Try A Rich Abundant Bouquet Of Flowers – The Cocktail Dress 

When invited to wear a cocktail dress a good choice would be the abundant floral bouquet Jean Patou Sublime. This is one of my all time favorite fragrances.  Created in 1992 by master perfumer Jean Kerleo this classic rich scent starts with sweet sugared orange rind to continue with a warm floral bouquet of Rose, Jasmine, Lily of The Valley and Orange Blossom. Try the older round vintage bottle shown on the photograph and the richer Eau de Parfum if you can. It has a dirtier drydown probably due to the added civet, making it more sophisticated and intriguing. Some would say making it more French.

Notes for Jean Patou Sublime: Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood.

Select An Elegant Flower – The Chanel Style Tweed Jacket 

Invited to a formal wedding and plan to wear a Chanel style tweed jacket with pearls or another more formal suit? Try Frederic Malle’s Iris Poudre. This cooler more introverted elegant fragrance is an excellent choice for those weddings where you want to keep a bit to yourself and keep some distance for whatever reason.

Notes for Frederic Malle Iris Poudre : Aldehydes, Iris, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Vetiver, Musk, Vanilla, Tonka Bean.

Pick A Crisp Fresh Floral – Informal Jeans 

When invited to an informal wedding where you can dress as you like and even come in jeans, a crisp soliflore (based on one flower) scent is a good choice, like the gardenia inspired Hothouse Flower by Ineke Fragrances. This is a fresh natural green fragrance with green stems, creamy white petals and green foliage. The dry down is inoffensive but lovely like white clean transparent cotton.

Notes for Ineke Fragrances Hothouse Flower:  Earl Grey Tea, Green Foliage, Cypress, Gardenia, Fig, Frankincense, Galbanum, Guaiacwood, Musk, Corn Silk.

Choose A Big Bold Flower – The Long Evening Dress 

When going to a wedding dressed in a long evening gala dress, you could select the iconic big floral by Serge Lutens Fleur d’Oranger. Fleur d’Oranger contains notes of white flowers like white rose, orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose. Which makes it very fitting for a wedding to wear. Although named after the orange blossom this scent can be more an opulent creamy tuberose scent to some.

Notes for Serge Lutens Fleur d’Oranger: Orange blossom, Jasmine, Tuberose, White Rose, Citrus Peel, Hibiscus Seeds, Cumin, Nutmeg.

Pick A Natural Flower – Barefoot White Dress On The Beach

For a wedding on the beach, in nature, garden or outside wear the all natural April Aromatics Jasmina. With jasmine, pink grapefruit and ylang ylang this scent is happy, sensual and uplifting but makes you feel relaxed as well. I have used the oil version regularly lately and very much like it.

Notes for April Aromatics Jasmina: Jasmin Grandiflorum, Ylang Ylang, Pink Grapefruit

Tara’s choices from A Bottled Rose, Megan’s from Megan in Sainte Máxime and Samantha’s from I Scent You A Day can be found by clicking on the names of the websites. I am curious about their choices, aren’t you?

What fragrance would you pick as a wedding guest? Will you be going to a wedding this year? If so, what fragrance will you wear?

 

 

Disclosure: all photographs were made by Esperessence, April Aromatics Jasmina was a pr sample, the other bottles were bought by me.