Rose

Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

Mood Scent 4 : Perfumes That Work For Everybody Else But You

 

It’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Tara from A Bottled Rose, Samantha from I Scent You A Day, Megan from Megan in St Maxime and I are all writing on the same subject every couple of months. This time we write about fragrances which work for everybody else except us. It might be due to skin chemistry, hormones or just personal taste. You can find the links to the others blogs at the end of this article.

I have chosen two fragrances very much loved amongst many perfume lovers: Parfum d’Empire Azemour and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait Of A Lady. Unfortunately both don’t work for me, here’s why.

Parfum d’Empire Azemour Les Orangers Eau de Parfum

Notes: orange, clementine, tangerine, grapefruit, coriander, cumin, black pepper, pink pepper, blackcurrant, galbanum, neroli, geranium, orange blossom, rose, hay, moss, henna and cypres (as of to Luckyscent)

Fragrance Family: Mossy Woods / Chypre (as of Michael Edwards)

Azemour was introduced in 2011 and created as a tribute to Morocco where it’s perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato was born and raised. The Eau de Parfum is said to contain all the parts of the orange tree from pulp, fruit, peel, leaves, to bark and earth. I found the use of all parts of an orange tree very appealing as I love everything from the orange tree. Azemour has had many positive reviews online (Bois de Jasmin, The Scented Hound and Olfactoria to name a few).

Orange Tree

Azemour starts very promising on my skin with golden sweet orange to continue quite rapidly into a very sour citrus. The glorious orange shines through from time to time showing a glimpse of the chypre I would like it to be but the dusty moss/hay and sour citrus notes ruin this Eau de Parfum completely for me. I was given a tester bottle when I purchased a fragrance a few years ago and used Azemour from time to time hoping for the better but alas the dusty moss/hay and sour citrus notes make it rather difficult for me to wear. My partner wore Azemour this summer and it smells amazingly warm bright and golden on him. I wish it smelled like this on me. My skin and Azemour just don’t match.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait Of A Lady Eau de Parfum 

Notes: rose, blackcurrant, raspberry, clove, patchouli,sandalwood, frankincense (as of the official Frederic Malle EU website)

Fragrance Family: Mossy Woods / Chypre (as of Michael Edwards)

Another well loved fragrance among many perfume lovers which doesn’t suit me is Frédéric Malle Portrait Of A Lady (often called in short PoaL). PoaL is said to originate from an accord of Frédéric Malle Geranium pour Monsieur. Some describe PoaL as a jammy rose with incense or as a dark rose. On my skin PoaL is very much about patchouli which I am not very fond of when it plays a prominent role. I get whiffs of jammy rose but mostly of very earthy patchouli which I can appreciate at certain moments but not for a whole day. Unfortunately the rose is not too noticable on my skin.

Bottomline: A perfume might not work for you due to personal taste, skin chemistry or hormones. Parfum d’Empire Azemour didn’t work due to my skin and probably hormones and Portrait of a Lady due to the prominent patchouli. So always test on your skin before buying a fragrance and monitor how it develops during the day. If you can test a few times.

You can read the choices of perfumes which don’t work for Tara from A Bottled Rose, Samantha from I Scent You A Day, Megan from Megan in St Maxime by klicking on their names.

Are there any perfumes which seem to work for everybody else except you?

Mood Scent 4 : Mainstream Perfumes : Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Tendre Jasmin, Accord Chic, Vanille Noir

 

Welcome to MoodScent 4!

We are four perfume bloggers based in France, Holland, England and Wales who post on a different joint subject every couple of months. This time we have chosen Mainstream perfumes. You will find links to the other blogs at the end of the post. We hope you have fun reading our different choices and adding your own selection in the comments!

The Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection 

As some of you already know, I love the Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection so I chose a couple of fragrances from this product line for mini reviews: Accord Chic, Tendre Jasmin and Vanille Noir. I reviewed Rose Oud earlier this year (see link at the end) and I plan on writing about Neroli soon.

The Secrets d’Essences Collection focuses on raw materials in perfumery like vanilla (2010), jasmine (2008), neroli (2013), iris (2007) and rose (2006). The Collection launched in 2005 with Voile d’Ambre.

I have all fragrances from this line as they can be found regularly on Marktplaats (Dutch eBay) for a decent price. Small 5 ml bottles can be bought at Yves Rocher for sampling. Recently they had 3 bottles on sale for 5 euro. Personally I find most of the scents fairly linear but very well made for a decent price and excellent to layer with, except for the intriguing dark Rose Oud.

Tendre Jasmin 

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier(Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique)

Notes: Jasmine Grandiflorum Abs., Jasmine Sambac Abs., Mimosa Abs., Orange Blossom Abs., Lemon, Mandarin. Orange

After starting with rather annoying synthetic aromachemicals, Tendre Jasmin continues as a clean floral bouquet with a bit of a green fresh touch. There is nothing edgy about this scent, no animals or índoles but a beautiful light jasmine fragrance.

Layer with: Accord Chic

Tendre Jasmin in a few words: happy, careless like a butterfly, light, virginal floral, pristine Jasmine

Accord Chic 

Perfumers:  Olivier Cresp (also known for creating Thierry Mugler Angel) and Marie Salamagne

Notes: pink pepper, elemi, iris, benzoin and frankincense

Starting with a spicy note of activating pink pepper and elemi with a sweet balsamic undertone probably from the benzoin, this fragrance changes quickly into a slightly dusty, sweeter and smoother scent. The frankincense adds a greener and slightly damp note to the whole fragrance. After a few hours what remains is a smooth scent which reminds me of liquorice. Longevity is excellent after 7 hours I can still smell a trace.

The image I get, when I smell Accord Chic, is from a well dressed elegant lady in a thin black wool sweater and long white wide wool pants. Looking closer you can see these are luxurious designer clothes. The name Chic in the perfume is very fitting but I find Accord horrendous as a perfume name. If this scent was sold by a niche perfume house this fragrance could easily become a bestseller. This fragrance is well worth a try.

Layer with:  Tendre Jasmin to enhance the floral heart or with Vanille Noir to link the benzoin in Accord Chic with the vanilla in the Vanille Noir to create a warmer fragrance.

Accord Chic in a few words: casual elegance and chic, refined, introverted, calm, intriguing

Vanilla Noir 

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier

Notes: mandarin, mimosa, Vanilla Bourbon, Ugandan Vanilla, Tahitian Vanilla, leather, cedar wood, orange blossom

This slightly dry vanilla seems to go directly to the base with sweet powder, liquid caramel and comforting woody notes. After a few hours what remains on the skin is a warm woody anisic skin scent.  I find Vanilla Noir to be quite linear and not very interesting in the beginning but it turns into a  fabulous warm comforting fragrance after a few hours. It is an excellent fragrance to layer with Guerlain Shalimar or Byredo Gypsy Water Eau de Cologne to enhance the vanilla in both.

Vanille Noir in a few words: warm, smooth, feels like a protective thin black soft wool blanket, comforting skin scent, not a gourmand vanilla

Layer with: Voile d’Ambre and Accord Chic, it probably works well with Neroli to create a fresh top note as well.


Bottom line: Tendre Jasmin, Accord Chic and Vanille Noir are all well worth a try, I find Accord Chic the most intriguing and Vanilla Noir the one I grew to like most.

Read my review of Annick Menardo’s dark rose creation for Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences and favorite from this collection here:  Rose Oud

Tara’s choices from A Bottled Rose, Megan’s from Megan in Sainte Máxime and Samantha’s from I I Scent You A Day can be found by clicking on the names of the websites. I am curious about their choices, aren’t you?

Have you tried this Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection? Do you have a favourite fragrance? Which one do you like most or would you like to try?