Rose

Iunx Eau Frappee What real roses should smell like

Iunx Eau Frappee
Iunx Eau Frappe was made by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. She is one of my favorite perfumers and made wonderful perfumes like L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!, D’Orsay Tilleul, Frederic Malle En Passant, L’Artisan Parfumeur L´Ete En Douce. I have scented a lot of her perfumes but not a rose perfume. En Passant, a beautiful lilac fragrance was reviewed by me before.

While being in Paris some time ago I went to the Iunx shop next to the Costes Hotel. The Iunx shop sells home fragrances and perfumes solely made by Olivia Giacobetti. These are very exclusive as they are only sold here. It was owned before by Shiseido and closed for some time but is open now, fortunately.

Iunx Eau Frappee

The shop is quite small and uncomfortable, very minimalistic. All fragrances can be scented through a kind of diffusers. It is a very pleasant way to scent fragrances. Shopping in this shop is made quite interesting. Photographs of these tubes can be seen on the website of the Non Blonde. In all the excitement I forgot to make photographs while visiting. After hearing a fellow perfumista, Ron Slomowicz was visiting Paris I asked him to make some photographs. He was not allowed to make photographs inside the store but he did make some wonderful photographs from the florist next door.

After reading about the fragrance L´Ether on several websites I tested this several times in the shop on skin and on a blotter as well. But I felt a bit like the story of the emperor not wearing any clothes. I did not scent anything, a very strange experience in a perfume shop. Fortunately I found another amazing scent, No 6 Eau Frappee.

Iunx Eau Frappee

Eau Frappee instanty gave me the feeling of what a beautiful bouquet of roses should smell like. Very fresh, slightly citrus, soft and slightly powdery. Its notes of combava (kaffir lime ), sweet lemon and citron are meant to mimic the scent of soft rose. Eau Frappee is sold as an eau de toilette in a large 150 ml very large and not very practicle spray bottle for 135 euro. My bottle was a gift from my boyfriend. The package is beautiful as you can see on the photograph.

I can imagine some will not find Eau Frappee a very interesting scent. It is not layered, does not change its scent after some time. But to me it is the interpretation of Olivia Giacobetti of the scent of a rose, soft light citrus fresh almost transparent. It would make an excellent room spray in a rose flower shop, as the flower shop next to the Costes Hotel on the photographs which Ron Slomowicz made. Roses in a bouquet in the Netherlands do not scent any more, but if they would, I would like them to scent like Eau Frappee.

Rose shop photographs were specially made by Ron Slomowicz. Thank you very much !

Photographs from the Iunx shop:http://www.thenonblonde.com/2011/09/iunx-perfumes-postcards-from-paris.html

More information on Iunx:  http://boisdejasmin.com/2005/06/iunx_10_edts_sp.html

*Previously published: Octobre 26th, 2012

Re edited August 12, 2016

Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave

Garden flowers by Elizabeth Murray

Garden flowers by Elizabeth Murray

When I first smelled Eau Suave I wasn´t as thrilled as I was with Yuzu Fou, another perfume by Parfum d´Empire. Yuzu Fou was like nothing I had tried before,  an instant boost of citrus energy. But after using Eau Suave a few times I began to get more fond of it.

Eau Suave was created in homage to the rose collection of Chateau of la Malmaison from the Empress Josephine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon de Bonaparte. The Empress grew many kinds of roses in Malmaison and was very passionate about them.  Especially three kinds of roses were kept in mind by the perfumer Marc Antoine Corticciato while making Eau Suave, the Rose Josephine, the Rose de Venus and the Rose Pourpre.

Eau Suave means smooth water. Smooth, honeyed and even double it certainly is. It may appear a straight rose perfume but it isn´t. There are more layers to it.  Different aspects of roses maybe like the Empress Josephine herself. She had a wonderful garden and loved roses, all very lovely in itself but passionate and sensual as well. Josephine had a passionate affair with Napoleon. They wrote love letters from which many of Napoleon´s letters still exist. 
Some mention spicy notes in Eau Suave. A hint to the birthplace in Martinique of Josephine of Beauharnais ?

I am still double about this rose scent.  It may not stand out as a rose perfume if you have a lot of them. But after a while, it might be a perfume to grow very fond of. As a garden which develops in time and you grow fond of during the years. So who knows, just give it some time. *

Suave reminded me of a beautiful song by Luis Miguel called Suave. It accompanies the perfume quite well. Listen and enjoy !

Thanks Elizabeth Murray for letting me use your beautiful picture.

First published: March 2012, reedited September 3, 2015

*During the 3 years after I wrote this review I have grown quite fond of Eau Suave and posses a bottle now. What I really like is its honeyed quality much more than its focus on rose.

Do you own fragrances you have grown fond of in the last years, which did not impress you at first ?  If so, tell us which ones !

Nicolaï Rose Oud Perfume Review

Photograph: Esperessence

Rose Oud is very soothing for the heart. Especially when you are suffering from heartache or confronted with difficult emotional situations in your life and want some elevation of stress/anxiety in a soft and gentle way. 

Interestingly Patricia de Nicolaï made Rose Oud as a powerful very rich deep fragrance (see video) But Rose Oud wears very close to my skin. It is more the light stroke of a rose. Caresse in French. Caresse de Rose would have been a better title for the fragrance.  I can only scent Rose Oud when I smell my wrist very closely, at less than 5 cm. Which is a pity but I reapply several times during the day. Longevity is not very good either. Very powerful rose perfumes on my skin are Guerlain Nahema edp and Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre.

Although I love rose fragrances I find it hard to find rose perfumes I wear regularly.  They can either be too the linear like Jo Malone Red Roses, too uplifting like the spicy Amouage Epic or Majda Bekkali Mon Nom Est Rouge or too activating like Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre.  I have found Rose Oud to be very appealing and  wore it quite often last summer. Of all my rose fragrances, this is the one I used most.

Rose Oud could give an uncomplicated impression at first sniff. But I find it an interesting modern, elegant, radiant and subtle fragrance.  You can wear it when you do not want others to smell your fragrance for example at your office or for a job interview.

What do I smell?

Personally I do not scent any oud in Rose Oud but some other male bloggers (Chemist in a Bottle and Geurengoeroe) say they do. At the beginning I get a fruity peach note probably due to the osmanthus. At the same time I get a lot of aldehydes the first few minutes adding lightness and brilliance. The aldehydes are not used in a retro vintage style like Antoine Lie in Rien Intense but in a more modern 21th century way.  What remains afterwards is an oily fragrance according to Perfume Shrine due to Nargamotha/Cypriol*. I get a sweet raspberry/rose note as well which is very similar to the Oliver and Co Santalum scented candle.

What does it do ?

Rose Oud is very soothing for the heart. Especially when you are suffering from heartache or confronted with difficult emotional situations in your life and want some elevation of stress or anxiety in a soft and gentle way. I used it a lot when my mother was in the hospital last summer. Part of this soothing effect could be a result of the usage of cypriol or to the calming effect of the rose.

Which image do I get ?

I get the image of the fur of my cat, Rubio as caressing him has a similar calming effect on me as wearing Rose Oud.

Composition: (according to the official Nicolaï website)

Top note: raspberry, davana, osmanthus

Heart note: rose, lily of the valley

Base note: agarwood, patchouli , sandalwood, musk, amber

Fragrance family: according to Patricia de Nicolaï chypre due to the rose and patchouli absolute (I would say floral chypre with fruity accents due to the raspberry or fruity chypre, Michael Edwards classifies it as a rose soliflore which makes sense)

Sillage: 1/5

Longevity: 1/5

Fragrance: 4/5

Overall: 3,5/5

Origin of bottle: my own,  Nicolaï is sold in The Netherlands by The Perfume Lounge and Parfumaria, both sell samples.

* Nagarmotha/Cypriol is a plant of the Cyperaceae family belonging to the papyrus family. Cypriol essential oil is harvested through steam distillation. Lotus Garden Botanicals states on its website that its fragrance has similarities with vetiver and oud. The essential oil is used in aromatherapy and is said to have an emotionally calming effect. According to an article of Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer most of the oud in perfumes are bases often made with Cypriol.

Give away: we are giving away a 2 ml sample of Rose Oud

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