MDCI

A selection of fragrances from the French perfume house MDCI

Mood Scent 4 : Inner Teen Perfumes

Its Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam (I Scent You a Day), Megan (Megan in St. Maxime), Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) and I write about a different  theme every month. This time we have chosen to post about Inner Teen Perfumes. Which perfumes make us feel like young teenagers again? Fragrances we used when we were teenagers ourselves or perfumes which make us feel like we are in our teens again?

When I was a teenager in the eighties I wore perfumes like Diorella, Lancome Climat and Estée Lauder White Linen. Diorella is the fragrance I associate most with being a teenager. I bought a “vintage” bottle of Climat a year ago but it does not remind me of the scent I used to wear at all. White Linen or Climat are not exactly fragrances I would suggest for teenagers nowadays but we had a lot less to choose from in those days as some of you well know!

Diorella!

I wore Diorella with much joy when I graduated high school in 1985. The year of films like St Elmo’s Fire, Back to the Future and Jagged Edge. Diorella extrait was a very generous gift from my aunt and it still makes me feel like a teenager even though it has been drastically changed removing its dominant fruity melon accord in more recent releases.

Diorella is an uplifting fragrance with Sicilian lemon, bright light clean jasmine over a vetiver and patchouly base. Natural jasmine flowers can smell of rotting and decay in the evening in the Mediterranean but the focus here is on it’s clean scent during the day. Perfumer Edmond Routniska interestingly added an almost rotting contrasting cantaloupe melon accord. Diorella was released in 1972. Edmond Routniska also created Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese in the early fifties (for his wife)  Le Parfum de Therese was released to the public in 2000 and some bloggers say it is rather similar to Diorella. Honestly I find it rather different but who knows how it smelled when it was first released in 1972? I would love to know Diorella how it was originally intended.

Notes: lemon, peach, basil, bergamot, melon, green notes, honeysuckle, jasmine, violet, rose, carnation, cyclamen. Oak moss, vanilla, clove, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, patchouly.

Moschino Cheap and Chic I Love Love

Pure careless joy in a playful coloured bottle. This fragrance uplifts me everytime I wear it and the blue and red bottle with a toylike spray brings a smile to my face every time I use it. Starting with a bright citrus accord, full of juicy pomelo and sweet candy like lemon, it changes into a warm woody base. Although pomelo or grapefruit is very dominant, it never gets sour and is extremely uplifting. It does disappear rather quickly on the skin though. I love love was released in 2005 and created by perfumer Olivier Cresp, it is said to be rather similar to Dolce Gabbana Light Blue (which he created too) but with a brighter citrus top and as a bonus it is much cheaper too. They do share the same DNA but I love love is much more prominent on my skin especially its bright pomelo opening.

Notes: grapefruit, red currant, lemon, tea rose, cinnamon, musk, cedar wood

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Parfums MDCI (MDCI)  Peche Cardinal is a young, joyful and pretty fruity floral fragrance. Wearing Péché Cardinal makes me feel innocent and playful. It was released in 2008, meaning Cardinal Sin in French and created by perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie.

Peche Cardinal was the first perfume with a dominant tuberose note I enjoyed wearing. The tuberose is fresh green and innocent before showing us her more lush or even carnal side. Péché Cardinal can be slightly caleidoscopic as she changes from sweet peach liquor to creamy tuberose and a lighter coconut.  It makes you feel like a young teenage girl feeling very pretty in pink (I am referring here to the 1986 film Pretty in Pink with Molly Ringwald and Andrew McCartney, a film I enjoyed watching in the eighties).

Notes: Davana, peach, coconut, blackcurrant, tuberose, prune, lily, cedar, sandalwood, musc.

These were my three choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks for inner teen perfumes! I am very curious, aren’t you?

What are your favorite inner teen fragrances? Did you wear them when you were a teenager? Which fragrances make you feel like a teenager again?

Disclosure; photographs of bottles were made by me, the Diorella add was created by Rene Gruau

MDCI Peche Cardinal

imageParfums MDCI (MDCI)  Peche Cardinal is a young, joyful and pretty fragrance. Wearing it makes me feel 16, innocent and charming like no other fragrance I have found.

It was the first perfume with a dominant tuberose note I enjoyed wearing and is one of my absolute favorites in my collection. What makes Peche Cardinal interesting is that although the tuberose note is dominant it displays a fresher  (greener ?) more innocent facet of the flower before becoming lush or even carnal. Peche Cardinal is a bit of shape shifter sometimes showing more of her sweet peach liquor side at other times more her creamy tuberose and coconut aspects.

One could say Peche Cardinal is a tuberose fragrance for beginners. Peche Cardinal was released in 2008 meaning Cardinal Sin.

The bottles come in two versions a simple more reasonably priced edition still expensive and one with a bisque stopper which looks beautiful and comes with a the Medici price tag. Both bottles are beautiful, although the one without the buste reminds me of the David Beckham glass bottles. The perfume has a beautiful peach pink orange color.

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All MDCI fragrances were made by very talented perfumers like Francis Kurkdjian, Patricia de Nicolai. Stephanie Bakouche, Cecile Zarokian, Amandine Marie and Bertrand Duchaufour.

I sampled most of the MDCI line some time ago buying a sample kit directly from the MDCI website, 8 small 12 ml splash bottles in an accompanying beautiful box. All buyers except people in the Netherlands can deduct the price of the sample box from their first full bottle. It is an excellent deal and a pity for people living in the Netherlands to be left out of this deal. Peche Cardinal was the fragrance I liked most from all the ones I tried.

Some people on the perfume website fragantica and Luckyscent did not believe Peche Cardinal was worth its price and could have been a main stream perfume. I agree with them this scent could have been one but only if better and more interesting main stream fragrances would be released. Although expensive I have not been able to find a cheaper alternative.

Notes according to Luckyscent: Davana, Peach, Coconut, Blackcurrent, Tuberose, Prune, Lily, Cedar, Sandelwood, Musc

Perfumer: Amandine Marie image

Fragrance family: Floral Fruity

Sillage: 3,5/5

Longevity: 3,5/5

Rating: 5/5

picture 1. Made by Rene Gruau, picture 2 taken from Luckyscent and picture 3 taken from the Parfums MDCI website

Origin of bottle and samples: my own