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Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

✨ Mood Scent 4 : Festive Event Fragrances ✨

It is Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam (I Scent You a Day), Megan (Megan in St. Maxime), Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) and I write about a different  theme every month. This time we have chosen to post about Festive Event fragrances. Which perfumes do we like to wear for festive events ? Fragrances with spices like cinnamon, aniseed, ginger, warming perfumes, lush tropical flowers or joyous bright aldehydic soapy fragrances?

Andree Putman Tan d’Epices

Rumour has it Olivia Giacobetti (Diptyque Philosykos and Frederic Malle En Passant) created Tan d’Epices as she created L’Original for designer house Andree Putman as well. Tan d’Epices is easygoing and transparent like a light veil of spicy powder applied on the skin. Reminiscent of spices found in French Gingerbread/Cake (Pain d’Epices) made with honey, cinnamon, aniseed and ginger Tan d’Epices leaves the skin scenting of mouthwatering Gingerbread reminding us of the upcoming holiday season. For those of us who celebrate it is the perfect Christmas fragrance.

Notes: heliotrope, cinnamon bark, incense, gingerbread, cedarwood, benzoin

Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir

Created in 2013 by Cecile Zarokian this warming perfume is excellent to get in a festive mood. Kashnoir reminds me of a delicious warm fluid rice dessert with cinnamon, almond milk and a slice of lemon rind.

Notes: lavender, lemon, bergamot, rose, orange blossom, coriander, vanilla, heliotrope, patchouli and benzoin.

Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Uplifting and joyous Bombay Bling will bring you in a festive mood in no time with its syrup like fruity scent of delicious green mango, spicy lemony cardamon and white floral bouquet of tropical ylang ylang, gardenia, frangipani and tuberose. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour Bombay Bling embodies very different aspects of modern colourful, buzzing, spiritual and joyfull India.

Notes: Mango, lychee, blackcurrant, cardamom, cumin, cistus, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac, Madagascar ylang-ylang, tuberose, frangipani, gardenia, patchouli, tobacco, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Superstitious

Superstitious was created by perfumer Domique Ropion who created bestellers like Thierry Mugler Alien, Lancome La Vie est Belle and Givenchy Amarige. Superstitious has two different faces smelling of clean modern soap (aldehydes) and dirty jasmine flowers plus wet earthy patchouli at the same time. The sparkling aldehydes make this a very festive perfume.

Notes: Jasmine, rose, peach, labdanum, vetiver, patchouli, musk, and aldehydes.


Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud

Finally a more budget friendly choice of Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud. This fragrance is still available although I suspect it will soon be discontinued as the Secrets d’Essences line is not sold any more in The Netherlands.

Rose Oud was created in 2016 by perfumer Annick Menardo (Lolita Lempicka Eau de Parfum, Dior Hypnotic Poison and Amouage Opus X). This woody fragrance is an adult, grown up and rather dark red velvet rose with boozy dried fruit aspects. I am thinking of dried plums soaked in alcohol here. Some compared Rose Oud online to Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois but Rose Oud is more floral in my opinion. Boozy dried plums, dark roses and Oud make this perfume very suited for festive cold winter events.

Notes: Rose, Rose Damascena, Oud, Cistus Labdanum, Cumin

These are my 5 festive event choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

What are your favorite festive fragrances? Do you wear spicy, warm, aldehydic or rose oud perfumes or are you more drawn to other kind of fragrances?

Disclaimer: all fragrances were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence.

 

Mood Scent 4 : Inner Teen Perfumes

Its Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam (I Scent You a Day), Megan (Megan in St. Maxime), Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) and I write about a different  theme every month. This time we have chosen to post about Inner Teen Perfumes. Which perfumes make us feel like young teenagers again? Fragrances we used when we were teenagers ourselves or perfumes which make us feel like we are in our teens again?

 

When I was a teenager in the eighties I wore perfumes like Diorella, Lancome Climat and Estée Lauder White Linen. Diorella is the fragrance I associate most with being a teenager. I bought a “vintage” bottle of Climat a year ago but it does not remind me of the scent I used to wear at all. White Linen or Climat are not exactly fragrances I would suggest for teenagers nowadays but we had a lot less to choose from in those days as some of you well know!

Diorella!

I wore Diorella with much joy when I graduated high school in 1985. The year of films like St Elmo’s Fire, Back to the Future and Jagged Edge. Diorella extrait was a very generous gift from my aunt and it still makes me feel like a teenager even though it has been drastically changed removing its dominant fruity melon accord in more recent releases.

Diorella is an uplifting fragrance with Sicilian lemon, bright light clean jasmine over a vetiver and patchouly base. Natural jasmine flowers can smell of rotting and decay in the evening in the Mediterranean but the focus here is on it’s clean scent during the day. Perfumer Edmond Routniska interestingly added an almost rotting contrasting cantaloupe melon accord. Diorella was released in 1972. Edmond Routniska also created Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese in the early fifties (for his wife)  Le Parfum de Therese was released to the public in 2000 and some bloggers say it is rather similar to Diorella. Honestly I find it rather different but who knows how it smelled when it was first released in 1972? I would love to know Diorella how it was originally intended.

Notes: lemon, peach, basil, bergamot, melon, green notes, honeysuckle, jasmine, violet, rose, carnation, cyclamen. Oak moss, vanilla, clove, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, patchouly.

Moschino Cheap and Chic I Love Love

Pure careless joy in a playful coloured bottle. This fragrance uplifts me everytime I wear it and the blue and red bottle with a toylike spray brings a smile to my face every time I use it. Starting with a bright citrus accord, full of juicy pomelo and sweet candy like lemon, it changes into a warm woody base. Although pomelo or grapefruit is very dominant, it never gets sour and is extremely uplifting. It does disappear rather quickly on the skin though. I love love was released in 2005 and created by perfumer Olivier Cresp, it is said to be rather similar to Dolce Gabbana Light Blue (which he created too) but with a brighter citrus top and as a bonus it is much cheaper too. They do share the same DNA but I love love is much more prominent on my skin especially its bright pomelo opening.

Notes: grapefruit, red currant, lemon, tea rose, cinnamon, musk, cedar wood

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Parfums MDCI (MDCI)  Peche Cardinal is a young, joyful and pretty fruity floral fragrance. Wearing Péché Cardinal makes me feel innocent and playful. It was released in 2008, meaning Cardinal Sin in French and created by perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie.

Peche Cardinal was the first perfume with a dominant tuberose note I enjoyed wearing. The tuberose is fresh green and innocent before showing us her more lush or even carnal side. Péché Cardinal can be slightly caleidoscopic as she changes from sweet peach liquor to creamy tuberose and a lighter coconut.  It makes you feel like a young teenage girl feeling very pretty in pink (I am referring here to the 1986 film Pretty in Pink with Molly Ringwald and Andrew McCartney, a film I enjoyed watching in the eighties).

Notes: Davana, peach, coconut, blackcurrant, tuberose, prune, lily, cedar, sandalwood, musc.

These were my three choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks for inner teen perfumes! I am very curious, aren’t you?

What are your favorite inner teen fragrances? Did you wear them when you were a teenager? Which fragrances make you feel like a teenager again?

Disclosure; photographs of bottles were made by me.