Mini reviews

Mood Scent 4 Golden Oldies

It is Mood Scent 4 Time again! Our monthly blogging project where Portia, (on A Bottled Rose) , Samantha  (I Scent You A Day) and Megan (Megan In St Maxime) write about a different subject linking perfume to mood or occasion. This time we picked Golden Oldies, those classic perfumes we hold fond memories of and have been with us for some time. Or those iconic old school classics which are well worth to try.

This time Samantha is with us again fortunately, although she is in her second lockdown in Wales as is Megan in France. Luckily we are not in lockdown in The Netherlands but things are fairly restricted and restaurants/cafes are closed. Portia is lucky to be more free to go outside, living in Australia. These are exceptional times for many of us to navigate. Back to Golden Oldies again, starting with iconic Jean Patou Joy.

Jean Patou Joy

‘Joy is a floral bouquet based on a very rich accord of two natural notes: jasmine and rose.’ Jean Patou

According to Jean Kerleo, former in house perfumer of Jean Patou and Osmoteque founder, Joy was a simple combination of jasmine and rose. It combined the richness of Bulgarian Rose and jasmine from Grasse. These two materials were used to create a very rich floral bouquet. Joy was launched in 1930, one year after the stock market crash of 1929 to become an icon in modern perfumery.

Two years after acquiring Jean Patou in 2018, LVMH has sadly decided to discontinue all Jean Patou fragrances. This is not very surprising. As Dior (which is part of the LVMH) launched a perfume in 2018 called Joy.  If you want to try Jean Patou Joy, 1000 or Sublime (another golden oldie love) grab a bottle from a discount store while you still can, otherwise you will have to visit the perfume archive Osmoteque in Versailles to smell one of these fragrances. I don’t know how these  ‘newer’ versions smell though and if they were reformulated to be a shadow of their former selves.

Personally I haven’t worn Joy as much as I have Jean Patou Sublime. Joy feels like wearing a very precious dark brown long mink coat, rich and luxurious to be enjoyed in the past but not from this era any more. Sublime however was created in the late eighties by Jean Kerleo and is reminiscent of this period when I was a student just living in Amsterdam. 

Hermes Caleche

Notes include aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver.

Named after a special type of light carriage, Hermes Caleche invokes a feeling of Parisian sophistication with classic silk dresses, expensive leather bags, beautiful handmade silk scarves and soft leather gloves. Created as an elegant easy to wear fragrance by Guy Robert, the newer Caleche which is now sold in the shops, has a become a more agressive aldehydic soap floral but still a refined fragrance. Soie de Caleche (the bottle on the photograph) was launched in 1992 and meant as a more easy to wear version to appeal to a younger audience. Both feel elegant and luxurious.  Caleche was launched in 1961. As a little side note: Kelly Caleche is a completely different fragrance from Hermes.


Puig Aqua Lavanda Colonia 

Notes include Lavender, Rosemary, Spike, Petitgrain, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Geranium, Musk, Tonka, Cedarwood and Moss

Aqua Lavanda (lavender water in Spanish) is very well known in Spain as many grew up with the soap bars and eau de cologne from this scent. Large plastic cologne bottles are sold in Spanish supermarkets (or online) for a song. Which doesn’t make the fragrance particularly attractive. One wouldn’t expect such a masterpiece to be sold at this price in these large plastic dishwasher like bottles. But no wonder Aqua Lavanda is such a fabulous fragrance. Aqua Lavanda was created by master perfumer Jean Carles! 

These are my 3 picks for Golden Oldies Perfumes. Have a look on Samantha’s blog I Scent You A Day Megan’s blog  Megan in St. Maxime  and Portia on A Bottled Rose, to read their choices too.

I Love To Hear From You
There have been some troubles with leaving comments before.  I hope you are able to leave your choice for Golden Oldies fragrances. Those fragrances you love to revisit from long gone era.

Disclosure: all fragrances were bought by me and all photographs were made by me as well. The two ads were found online.

Mood Scent 4 Joyful Spritzing!

It is Mood Scent 4 time again! Where Portia (now on A Bottled Rose), Sam (I Scent You A Day) Megan (Megan In Sainte Maxime) and I write about a joined subject each month linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we picked joyful spritzing!

For me joyful spritzing means, perfumes which always cheer me up. I chose 4 fragrances starting with a perfume full of joy, April Aromatics Ray of Light.

April Aromatics Ray Of Light

Notes: Lime, Lemon, Pink Grapefruit, Orange, Bergamot, Galbanum, Mint, Vetiver, Tobacco. Perfumer: Tanja Bochnig Year: 2014

Bright crisp green lime and sweet vibrant yellow lemon with bitter green bits reminiscent of the leaves of the lemon tree make this a very uplifting fragrance for those days when you need some encouragement. Ray of Light is an all natural cheerful fragrance made by Berlin based perfumer Tanja Bochnig.

Wearing Ray of Light is like hearing a dear friend whispering cheerful words in your ear on those days you need help to get things done or get in a much better mood. Pure joy in a perfume bottle.

L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons Eau de Toilette

Notes: Linden Blossom, Lemon Tree Blossom (Petit Grain Lemon), Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Tuberose Perfumer: Anne Flipo Year: 1999

This cheerful innocent floral bouquet of white orange, jasmine and tuberose blossoms with green and coconut facets never fails to lift my spirits. It is one of my favorite uplifting fragrances and I gladly use this Eau de Toilette on grey days to get me in a cheerful light mood again. La Chasse Aux Papillons means chasing butterflies in French, a joyful exquisite and suited name for this perfume.

Parfums Dusita Fleur de Lalita

NotesRose de mai, magnolia, jasmine, white lily, galbanum, ylang-ylang, ambrette, vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean and ambergris Perfumer: Pissara Umavijani Year: 2018 

Fleur de Lalita makes you feel like a sweet teenage girl wearing a fluffy soft light pink short coat, tutu and sparkly tiara, giggling, joyous and feeling like a little princess. It is an absolutely stunning fragrance and a joy to wear, full of creamy tropical flowers, a light touch of coconut and warming smooth sandalwood. This fragrance had been on my wishlist for several years as it was an instant love and after using up several samples I finally bought a full bottle (my only one in this period!) during our “lockdown”.

Miller Harris Lumière Doree

NotesBergamot, Petit Grain Bigaradier, Orange Bigarade, Neroli Bigarade, Sambac Jasmine, Cashmere wood, Vetiver, Amber accord,  White Musks. Perfumer:  Mathieu Nardin Year: 2016

This cologne style neroli filled fragrance brightens the day with its Mediterranean flowers of jasmine, bitter orange and green bergamot citrus fruit. Lumière Doree transports me to joyful Spanish avenida’s full of small bitter orange trees filling up the air with their sunny luminous floral aroma and children loudly playing while smelling of Neroli cologne and clean soap.

Over To My Mood Scent 4 Pals
These are my 4 picks for joyfull spritzing! Have a look on Sam’s blog on I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime  and Portia on A Bottled Rose to read their picks and view  on this subject.

I Love To Hear From You
There have been some troubles with leaving comments before. I do hope you are able to leave your choices for a joyful perfume. I love to hear from you!

Disclosure: All photographs were made by Esperessence. All perfumes were bought by me as well. I was lucky to win the April Aromatics set years ago on a Facebook contest.