Guy Robert

Mood Scent 4 Golden Oldies

It is Mood Scent 4 Time again! Our monthly blogging project where Portia, (on A Bottled Rose) , Samantha  (I Scent You A Day) and Megan (Megan In St Maxime) write about a different subject linking perfume to mood or occasion. This time we picked Golden Oldies, those classic perfumes we hold fond memories of and have been with us for some time. Or those iconic old school classics which are well worth to try.

This time Samantha is with us again fortunately, although she is in her second lockdown in Wales as is Megan in France. Luckily we are not in lockdown in The Netherlands but things are fairly restricted and restaurants/cafes are closed. Portia is lucky to be more free to go outside, living in Australia. These are exceptional times for many of us to navigate. Back to Golden Oldies again, starting with iconic Jean Patou Joy.

Jean Patou Joy

‘Joy is a floral bouquet based on a very rich accord of two natural notes: jasmine and rose.’ Jean Patou

According to Jean Kerleo, former in house perfumer of Jean Patou and Osmoteque founder, Joy was a simple combination of jasmine and rose. It combined the richness of Bulgarian Rose and jasmine from Grasse. These two materials were used to create a very rich floral bouquet. Joy was launched in 1930, one year after the stock market crash of 1929 to become an icon in modern perfumery.

Two years after acquiring Jean Patou in 2018, LVMH has sadly decided to discontinue all Jean Patou fragrances. This is not very surprising. As Dior (which is part of the LVMH) launched a perfume in 2018 called Joy.  If you want to try Jean Patou Joy, 1000 or Sublime (another golden oldie love) grab a bottle from a discount store while you still can, otherwise you will have to visit the perfume archive Osmoteque in Versailles to smell one of these fragrances. I don’t know how these  ‘newer’ versions smell though and if they were reformulated to be a shadow of their former selves.

Personally I haven’t worn Joy as much as I have Jean Patou Sublime. Joy feels like wearing a very precious dark brown long mink coat, rich and luxurious to be enjoyed in the past but not from this era any more. Sublime however was created in the late eighties by Jean Kerleo and is reminiscent of this period when I was a student just living in Amsterdam. 

Hermes Caleche

Notes include aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver.

Named after a special type of light carriage, Hermes Caleche invokes a feeling of Parisian sophistication with classic silk dresses, expensive leather bags, beautiful handmade silk scarves and soft leather gloves. Created as an elegant easy to wear fragrance by Guy Robert, the newer Caleche which is now sold in the shops, has a become a more agressive aldehydic soap floral but still a refined fragrance. Soie de Caleche (the bottle on the photograph) was launched in 1992 and meant as a more easy to wear version to appeal to a younger audience. Both feel elegant and luxurious.  Caleche was launched in 1961. As a little side note: Kelly Caleche is a completely different fragrance from Hermes.


Puig Aqua Lavanda Colonia 

Notes include Lavender, Rosemary, Spike, Petitgrain, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Geranium, Musk, Tonka, Cedarwood and Moss

Aqua Lavanda (lavender water in Spanish) is very well known in Spain as many grew up with the soap bars and eau de cologne from this scent. Large plastic cologne bottles are sold in Spanish supermarkets (or online) for a song. Which doesn’t make the fragrance particularly attractive. One wouldn’t expect such a masterpiece to be sold at this price in these large plastic dishwasher like bottles. But no wonder Aqua Lavanda is such a fabulous fragrance. Aqua Lavanda was created by master perfumer Jean Carles! 

These are my 3 picks for Golden Oldies Perfumes. Have a look on Samantha’s blog I Scent You A Day Megan’s blog  Megan in St. Maxime  and Portia on A Bottled Rose, to read their choices too.

I Love To Hear From You
There have been some troubles with leaving comments before.  I hope you are able to leave your choice for Golden Oldies fragrances. Those fragrances you love to revisit from long gone era.

Disclosure: all fragrances were bought by me and all photographs were made by me as well. The two ads were found online.

Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose

RosinesectretderoseRosine is a French perfume house originally founded in 1911 by de French fashion designer Paul Poiret. Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer to start a perfume house. The perfume house was launched in the same year as his sensational soiree inspired by harems of the sultan, The Thousand and Second Night. It must have been the party of the decade as many refer to this party for its extravagance and lavishness.

Paul Poirets couture was inspired by the orient, Russia and North Africa and his perfumes had names like Aladin and Maharadjah. The perfume house was named after Paul Poiret eldest daughter Rosine who died not much later in 1915 from an ear infection. Paul Poiret served in the First World War but after his return his designs became out of fashion and his fashion house had to close in 1929, leaving Paul Poiret impoverished. Some original Rosine fragrances can now be scented at the ‘perfume library’, the Osmotheque in Versailles.

The current Les Parfums de Rosine Perfume House was founded in 1991. Most of the Rosine perfumes are inspired by the rose theme. Secrets de Rose was introduced in 2009. The inspiration for this perfume came from the rare black rose.

The notes according to the Rosine website are:

 

Top note : Plum, Liquorice, Rose essence, Bitter Orange, Saffron
Heart note : Magnolia, Ylang ylang, Rose absolute, White Jasmine, Seeds of cumin
Base note : Sandalwood, Himalaya oak moss, Amber resin, Labdanum, MuskPerfumer: Francois Robert

 

Secrets de Rose is a very well blended powdery rose. It is natural but at the same time stylish and with a little spicy punch, not a natural light fresh English tea rose but more a modern classic rose. Although some websites refer to Secret de Rose as seducing I do not find it to be tempting at all. More a stylish velvet uncomplicated rose, very well suited for office wear. The powder note in Secrets de Rose reminds me of Kirsten Dunst in the movie Marie Antoinette.

What does it do ? And how does it make you feel ?

It eases and makes you feel more peaceful. Perfect for work or when you feel a bit stressed. But it keeps you sharp and focused.

It makes you feel like the picture made by Rene Gruau for Dioressence. The picture suits Secrets de Rose more than it does vintage Dioressence. If there is one perfume I would call seducing it would be the vintage animalic Dioressence made by the father of the perfumer of Secrets de Rose Guy Robert.

Although I am fond of rose perfumes I find it hard to find a rose perfume I really like. Secrets de Rose is one of my favourites at this moment and it was instant love. Many perfume bloggers are writing about rose perfume at this moment. Secrets de Rose has not gotten much attention lately. When it was introduced in 2009 it got some very positive reviews though. If you like rose and want a perfume with a little twist, Secrets de Rose is worth a try.

Try it if you like: Yves Rocher Rose Absolue, People of the Labyrinths A.Maze

Longevity:  medium, up to 4,5 hours

Sillage: moderate, stays quite close to your skin

Fragrance family (via Fragrances of the World): Floral Oriental

All fragrances mentioned in this article are my own acquisition.

Originally published: February 24, 2014

Updated: March 28, 2015

 

Pictures:

Picture 1: Paul Poiret 1920 Theatre Costumes ”Paris qui Jazz” Revue, José de Zamora Designer

Picture 2: Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antoinette

Picture 3: Rene Gruau for Dior