Guy Robert

Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose

RosinesectretderoseRosine is a French perfume house originally founded in 1911 by de French fashion designer Paul Poiret. Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer to start a perfume house. The perfume house was launched in the same year as his sensational soiree inspired by harems of the sultan, The Thousand and Second Night. It must have been the party of the decade as many refer to this party for its extravagance and lavishness.

Paul Poirets couture was inspired by the orient, Russia and North Africa and his perfumes had names like Aladin and Maharadjah. The perfume house was named after Paul Poiret eldest daughter Rosine who died not much later in 1915 from an ear infection. Paul Poiret served in the First World War but after his return his designs became out of fashion and his fashion house had to close in 1929, leaving Paul Poiret impoverished. Some original Rosine fragrances can now be scented at the ‘perfume library’, the Osmotheque in Versailles.

The current Les Parfums de Rosine Perfume House was founded in 1991. Most of the Rosine perfumes are inspired by the rose theme. Secrets de Rose was introduced in 2009. The inspiration for this perfume came from the rare black rose.

The notes according to the Rosine website are:

 

Top note : Plum, Liquorice, Rose essence, Bitter Orange, Saffron
Heart note : Magnolia, Ylang ylang, Rose absolute, White Jasmine, Seeds of cumin
Base note : Sandalwood, Himalaya oak moss, Amber resin, Labdanum, MuskPerfumer: Francois Robert

 

Secrets de Rose is a very well blended powdery rose. It is natural but at the same time stylish and with a little spicy punch, not a natural light fresh English tea rose but more a modern classic rose. Although some websites refer to Secret de Rose as seducing I do not find it to be tempting at all. More a stylish velvet uncomplicated rose, very well suited for office wear. The powder note in Secrets de Rose reminds me of Kirsten Dunst in the movie Marie Antoinette.

What does it do ? And how does it make you feel ?

It eases and makes you feel more peaceful. Perfect for work or when you feel a bit stressed. But it keeps you sharp and focused.

It makes you feel like the picture made by Rene Gruau for Dioressence. The picture suits Secrets de Rose more than it does vintage Dioressence. If there is one perfume I would call seducing it would be the vintage animalic Dioressence made by the father of the perfumer of Secrets de Rose Guy Robert.

Although I am fond of rose perfumes I find it hard to find a rose perfume I really like. Secrets de Rose is one of my favourites at this moment and it was instant love. Many perfume bloggers are writing about rose perfume at this moment. Secrets de Rose has not gotten much attention lately. When it was introduced in 2009 it got some very positive reviews though. If you like rose and want a perfume with a little twist, Secrets de Rose is worth a try.

Try it if you like: Yves Rocher Rose Absolue, People of the Labyrinths A.Maze

Longevity:  medium, up to 4,5 hours

Sillage: moderate, stays quite close to your skin

Fragrance family (via Fragrances of the World): Floral Oriental

All fragrances mentioned in this article are my own acquisition.

Originally published: February 24, 2014

Updated: March 28, 2015

 

Pictures:

Picture 1: Paul Poiret 1920 Theatre Costumes ”Paris qui Jazz” Revue, José de Zamora Designer

Picture 2: Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antoinette

Picture 3: Rene Gruau for Dior