Oakmoss

Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

Hermes Eau d’orange verte Shower Gel Better Than a Shot of Caffeine

Bitter oranges

In the Netherlands it is wintertime. Days are short, tend to be grey and it can be rainy. For me it is one of the most difficult times of the year as we do not get a lot a sunshine. I compensate the lack of sun as much as I can by using fragrances and body products which are uplifting and energizing. One of the best to accomplish this is Hermes Eau d’orange verte hair and body shower gel (in short: shower gel).

Hermes Eau d’orange verte shower gel is not cheap* but I find it to be extremely uplifting, energizing and worth its price as you do not need a lot of it. Apply a bit of shower gel (the amount of 5 euro cents) on the inside of the palm of your hand, put your hands together so you get a bit of lather and smell for a few seconds. This energizes me more than a shot or two of espresso or ristretto coffee.

Hermes Eau d'orange verte showergel review

 

Nice to know

Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte used to be called Eau de Cologne Hermes and was created in 1979 by French perfumer Francoise Caron. It does not contain bergamot or so Hermes claims for some unknown reason. But it does contain petit grain lemon, mandarin, bitter orange tree (bigadier) leaves (orange leaf absolute plus probably petit grain orange) and peppermint, according to official Hermes training material from the nineties. According to different internet sources Eau d’orange verte contains/used to contain oakmoss and patchouly.

Fragrance Family

Rich Citrus (Michael Edwards)/ Floral Chypre Citrus (Technical Commision of French Society of Perfumers)

*The official Hermes price for a 200 ml hair and body shower gel bottle is 33 euro and can be bought online via the official Hermes website.

Do you use body products to uplift or energize you ? If so which one do you like to use most ?

Photographs made by L’Esperessence