Maurice Roucel

Yosh Sottile Stunningly Beautiful

Photograph by Esperessence

Photograph by Esperessence

Today I scented my second perfume of the American perfumer Yosh Han, Sottile. Its name means subtle in Italian. Again I was amazed by her perfume. Its natural beauty and pure elegance is stunning. It felt like putting on a white transparent light shawl while wearing a beautiful white long dress, simple but very elegant.

Sottile is very light and almost ethereal, as a perfume the Italian perfumer Olivia Giacobetti could have made. Within an hour Sottile has evolved into a (green) white flower natural light perfume which stays very close to the skin. The way a natural tea rose could scent.

When I look in my own perfume collection this is the opposite of a perfume made by the French perfumer Maurice Roucel for Guerlain; Insolence eau de parfum. While Insolence is big, very present having tremendous sillage, Sottile is light, elegant, sensitive and graceful.

If the name had not already been taken by Philosophy it could have been called Inner Grace or Pure Grace. As Yosh perfumes work on a deeper energetic level not only scenting you, it connected me to my inner grace and sensitivity.

This review could be of two words: stunning and beautiful. Like the natural elegance and grace of a flower.

Notes: tea rose and lily of the valley

More information on

First published: September 2012

Re edited: September 5, 2015


Guerlain Apres L’Ondee Eau de Toilette Sparkle of Joy


Some weeks ago I had the opportunity to swap for the classic Guerlain Apres L’Ondee eau de toilette. The eau de toilette is a recent version which can still be bought in perfumeries and department stores.   Originally Apres L’Ondee was made in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain. It means after the rainshower in French and is meant to captivate the light and fresh atmosphere after the rain in Springtime or Summer when it is a bit warmer outside.

What surprised me most about Apres L’Ondee was its radiance and youthfullness when I scented it for the first time. After about a minute, it was as if its radiance was restrained, like a child who is not allowed to walk in the rain and enjoy it fully, wanting to play with her boots in the mud.

On my skin Apres L’Ondee has a slightly medicinal scent at the beginning, I call it medicinal but others have referred to it as herbes de Provence. Dissappearing to leave a light violet scent on the skin, like it has been powdered.

The fact that Apres L’Ondee  is referred to as a real classic fragrance had deterred me a bit. Jean Claude Elenna  paid homage to the sillage of Apres L’Ondee with Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver*. Maurice Roucel made Guerlain Insolence edt as a modern version of Apres L’Ondee. It had left me with the impression of an old and musty fragrance. But none of these were the case. Not only does Apres L’Ondee not give the impression that it was created more then a century ago. When I scented it I started wondering why I had been looking for a holy violet vintage grail while it was right before my eyes to be found.

What did I like about Apres L’Ondee ? It takes me to the beginning of  joy. You start to see a sparkle of light as a new era is about to start but still do not experience it fully and feel a bit restrained by your environment or circumstances.  It feels very different to the Italian fragrance Luce made by Hilde Soliani where you can experience the joy fully and openly.

Try Apres L’Ondee especially if you like violets and do not be put off by the fact it was created more than a century ago. Have you been looking for a holy grail or perfect fragrance when it was right before your eyes to be found ?

Notes according to Guerlain (read more on the website of Monsieur Guerlain ) : bergamot, lemon, anise, neroli, hawthorn, rosemary, lavender, lily, orchid, violet, rose, jasmine, heliotrope, orris, sandalwood, vanilla, musk.

Fragrance family: floral spicy amber by the French Committee of Perfume / floral oriental fresh by Michael Edwards

When to wear: at a job interview, when meeting your Mother in law for the first time, at an occasion where you want to wear a subtle and refined fragrance or when you want you start feeling joy over a new beginning of a job or new period in your life.

Painting Courtesy of Mary-Clare Cornwallis

Read more about experiencing joy while wearing a perfume in my review of Hilde Soliani Luce

* More to be read in the article New Yorker The Scent of the Nile