Calice Becker

Mood Scent 4 : Bring‘em Back! Perfumes We Miss

 


✨Best wishes for the new year to you all! Wishing you a very happy, fragrant and healthy 2020!✨

This is my first post of 2020 and it’s Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam from Wales (I Scent You A Day), Portia from Australia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Megan from France (Megan from Sainte Maxime) and I (from Amsterdam, The Netherlands) publish a post every month on the same subject, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we have chosen to write about discontinued perfumes we miss.

There are many fragrances I wish were brought back but I will write about 4 favorite perfumes I treasure from Fendi, Joop!, Yves Rocher, Dior and mention some others too. Here they are, starting with Fendi Palazzo.

Fendi Palazzo Eau de Parfum (2007)

Palazzo is orange blossom extravaganza with sweet citrus fruit accents, think juicy tangerine. After some minutes you are left with the scent of expensive soap from a luxurious Grand Roman 5 stars Classic hotel and creamy liquid warm caramel like the sauce you can get on ice cream.

Palazzo was named after the flagstore of Fendi in the Centre of Rome situated in a 17th century palace (Palazzo in Italian). Fendi Palazzo is not easy to find for a fairly reasonable price but worth to seek after if you like orange blossom in perfume. Palazzo was created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Thierry Wasser and Jean-Pierre Béthouart. Karl Lagerfeld made the photographs for the pr campaign.

Notes: lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli.

What about Adam Esperessence

Joop! What About Adam (1992)

Joop What About Adam was one of the first perfumes released from Calice Becker (Dior J’Adore, By Killian, Cuir de Lancome) when she started as a young perfumer and it reminds her of this period. Coincidentally What About Adam was one of the first perfumes my fiancé wore when he started working as well. I have searched for this fragrance all around the world and even had bottles shipped from Kuwait but the Eau de Toilette is almost impossible to find nowadays.

I noticed the last bottle I bought had top notes which were slightly off so it might be a bit risky to buy What About Adam nowadays. This can be a risk when buying “vintage” perfumes. The top of fresh crisp green tomato leaf on a warm vanilla base with labdanum and oakmoss remain very special and one of a green kind.

Notes: citruspeel, grapefruit, tomato leaf, cassis, spearmint, geranium, lavender, ozonic florals, cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, labdanum and vanilla.

Yves Rocher Cantate (1995)

Many magnificent perfumes from Yves Rocher have been discontinued, Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud, Rose Absolue, Ispahan (Maurice Roucel created this from Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). One of the most natural lilac fragrances I know Pur Desir de Lilas (Annick Menardo) was discontinued years ago as well. Cantate is my favourite one from Yves Rocher.

Don’t be fooled by the horrendously ugly plastic cap on this bottle. This full dark red velvet rose, spiced with warm cinnamon on a smooth sandalwood base is well worth chasing after. It has a slightly dirty undertone as well and gives the same kind of feel as Guerlain Samsara. Wearing Cantate on cold days makes you feel like a baroque opera diva dressed in a long crimson dark red velvet evening dress, ready to go on stage in the Royal Opera. Glorious!

Notes: rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, cinnamon, spices, sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka beans.

Dior Dioressence (1969/1979) Vintage 

Although sale assistents in department stores may tell you differently (I had this experience several times in the past) Dioressence was reformulated and thinned beyond recognition as if a completely different  fragrance is sold today.

Dioressence was originally created by master perfumer Guy Robert (Amouage Gold, Hermes Caleche, Equipage and Doblis) as an animalic fragrance for a bath oil in 1969 and released later as a perfume in 1979.  Perfumer Max Gavarry worked on its later release. Guy Robert got his idea for Dioressence when after working with a lump of Ambergris he washed his hands with a cheap Miss Dior knock off soap.

I own several bottles like the one the photograph which is not too animalic anymore but centres more on the oakmoss. A lot has been written about Dioressence, you can read more extensively about them on other blogs. Perfume Shrine has an excellent background article. I love Dioressence very much, the name of my blog, Esperessence was inspired by it.

Notes: 
Aldehydes, Bergamot, Orange, Jasmine, Violet, Rosebud, Ylang ylang, Geranium, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Orris Root, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Musk, Styrax.

These are my Bring ‘em Back choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

Which perfumes do you miss and want back? What do you think of my choices?

Disclaimer: all perfumes were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence as well.

22 Perfumers, A Creative Proces book by Clara Molloy

One of the most interesting perfume books I have come across this year is 22 Perfumers, A Creative process. In this book 22 Perfumers are interviewed, including Olivier Cresp, Francis Kurkdjian, Francoise Caron and Jacques Cavallier. Although it costs 69 euro excluding postage, 22 Perfumers is really worth its price.

22perfumersmemo

The book provides information you cannot find elsewhere as most of the perfumers in the book rarely give interviews. The ones I enjoyed most were with the interview with Calice Becker where she explains about the creation of Dior J´Adore and her special relationship with this perfume.

The interview with Sophia Grosjman impressed me most. She is the perfumer of many popular fragrances like Lancome Tresor, Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Eternity Calvin Klein and Estee Lauder White Linen. The life story of Sophia Grosjman is truly amazing, being born in the former Soviet Union, fleeing to Poland to immigrate in the United States, starting to work at IFF in New York and becoming a female perfumer. Her story was very inspiring and made want me to scent her fragrances again. Perfumes like Tresor, Paris and Eternity which have become so familiar to us as they are sold in local drugstores nowadays. The way they became famous, was quite special on its own.

Fragrances from the television commercials like J´Adore, Paris and Tresor are put into a whole new perspective by these interviews. They have added depth and a new dimension to them.

Did I miss any perfumers in the book ? Yes, two of my favorite perfumers: Pierre Bourdon perfumer of many fragrances but one of his most famous Davidoff Cool Water and Eduard Flechier, perfumer of Dior Poison. But the list of renowned and gifted perfumers gives a good insight on its own of the work of these 22 perfumers including Maurice Roucel, Christine Nagel and Olivier Cresp.

Interviewed perfumers are: Michel Almairac, Calice Becker, Carlos Benaim, Francoise Caron, Jacques Cavallier, Olivier Cresp, Francois Demachy, Jean-Michel Duriez, Jean-Claude Ellena, Sophia Grosjman, Jean-Paul Guerlain, Francis Kurkdjian, Sophie Labbe, Mathilde Laurent, Alienor Massenet, Annick Menardo, Alberto Morillas, Christine Nagel, Jacques Polge, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel.

22 Perfumers can be ordered via the website of Memo Fragrances. The book comes in French and English. It was printed in October 2007.

http://memofragrances.com/en/books/70-22-perfumers-a-creative-process.html

Disclosure: own acquisition

Published: August 23, 2013

Updated: March 29, 2015