Olivia Giacobetti

✨ Mood Scent 4 : Festive Event Fragrances ✨

It is Mood Scent 4 time again! Sam (I Scent You a Day), Megan (Megan in St. Maxime), Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) and I write about a different  theme every month. This time we have chosen to post about Festive Event fragrances. Which perfumes do we like to wear for festive events ? Fragrances with spices like cinnamon, aniseed, ginger, warming perfumes, lush tropical flowers or joyous bright aldehydic soapy fragrances?

Andree Putman Tan d’Epices

Rumour has it Olivia Giacobetti (Diptyque Philosykos and Frederic Malle En Passant) created Tan d’Epices as she created L’Original for designer house Andree Putman as well. Tan d’Epices is easygoing and transparent like a light veil of spicy powder applied on the skin. Reminiscent of spices found in French Gingerbread/Cake (Pain d’Epices) made with honey, cinnamon, aniseed and ginger Tan d’Epices leaves the skin scenting of mouthwatering Gingerbread reminding us of the upcoming holiday season. For those of us who celebrate it is the perfect Christmas fragrance.

Notes: heliotrope, cinnamon bark, incense, gingerbread, cedarwood, benzoin

Laboratorio Olfattivo Kashnoir

Created in 2013 by Cecile Zarokian this warming perfume is excellent to get in a festive mood. Kashnoir reminds me of a delicious warm fluid rice dessert with cinnamon, almond milk and a slice of lemon rind.

Notes: lavender, lemon, bergamot, rose, orange blossom, coriander, vanilla, heliotrope, patchouli and benzoin.

Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Uplifting and joyous Bombay Bling will bring you in a festive mood in no time with its syrup like fruity scent of delicious green mango, spicy lemony cardamon and white floral bouquet of tropical ylang ylang, gardenia, frangipani and tuberose. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour Bombay Bling embodies very different aspects of modern colourful, buzzing, spiritual and joyfull India.

Notes: Mango, lychee, blackcurrant, cardamom, cumin, cistus, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac, Madagascar ylang-ylang, tuberose, frangipani, gardenia, patchouli, tobacco, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Superstitious

Superstitious was created by perfumer Domique Ropion who created bestellers like Thierry Mugler Alien, Lancome La Vie est Belle and Givenchy Amarige. Superstitious has two different faces smelling of clean modern soap (aldehydes) and dirty jasmine flowers plus wet earthy patchouli at the same time. The sparkling aldehydes make this a very festive perfume.

Notes: Jasmine, rose, peach, labdanum, vetiver, patchouli, musk, and aldehydes.


Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud

Finally a more budget friendly choice of Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Rose Oud. This fragrance is still available although I suspect it will soon be discontinued as the Secrets d’Essences line is not sold any more in The Netherlands.

Rose Oud was created in 2016 by perfumer Annick Menardo (Lolita Lempicka Eau de Parfum, Dior Hypnotic Poison and Amouage Opus X). This woody fragrance is an adult, grown up and rather dark red velvet rose with boozy dried fruit aspects. I am thinking of dried plums soaked in alcohol here. Some compared Rose Oud online to Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois but Rose Oud is more floral in my opinion. Boozy dried plums, dark roses and Oud make this perfume very suited for festive cold winter events.

Notes: Rose, Rose Damascena, Oud, Cistus Labdanum, Cumin

These are my 5 festive event choices! Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks.  I am very curious, aren’t you?

What are your favorite festive fragrances? Do you wear spicy, warm, aldehydic or rose oud perfumes or are you more drawn to other kind of fragrances?

Disclaimer: all fragrances were bought by Esperessence. Photographs were made by Esperessence.

 

Iunx Eau Frappee What real roses should smell like

Iunx Eau Frappee
Iunx Eau Frappe was made by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. She is one of my favorite perfumers and made wonderful perfumes like L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!, D’Orsay Tilleul, Frederic Malle En Passant, L’Artisan Parfumeur L´Ete En Douce. I have scented a lot of her perfumes but not a rose perfume. En Passant, a beautiful lilac fragrance was reviewed by me before.

While being in Paris some time ago I went to the Iunx shop next to the Costes Hotel. The Iunx shop sells home fragrances and perfumes solely made by Olivia Giacobetti. These are very exclusive as they are only sold here. It was owned before by Shiseido and closed for some time but is open now, fortunately.

Iunx Eau Frappee

The shop is quite small and uncomfortable, very minimalistic. All fragrances can be scented through a kind of diffusers. It is a very pleasant way to scent fragrances. Shopping in this shop is made quite interesting. Photographs of these tubes can be seen on the website of the Non Blonde. In all the excitement I forgot to make photographs while visiting. After hearing a fellow perfumista, Ron Slomowicz was visiting Paris I asked him to make some photographs. He was not allowed to make photographs inside the store but he did make some wonderful photographs from the florist next door.

After reading about the fragrance L´Ether on several websites I tested this several times in the shop on skin and on a blotter as well. But I felt a bit like the story of the emperor not wearing any clothes. I did not scent anything, a very strange experience in a perfume shop. Fortunately I found another amazing scent, No 6 Eau Frappee.

Iunx Eau Frappee

Eau Frappee instanty gave me the feeling of what a beautiful bouquet of roses should smell like. Very fresh, slightly citrus, soft and slightly powdery. Its notes of combava (kaffir lime ), sweet lemon and citron are meant to mimic the scent of soft rose. Eau Frappee is sold as an eau de toilette in a large 150 ml very large and not very practicle spray bottle for 135 euro. My bottle was a gift from my boyfriend. The package is beautiful as you can see on the photograph.

I can imagine some will not find Eau Frappee a very interesting scent. It is not layered, does not change its scent after some time. But to me it is the interpretation of Olivia Giacobetti of the scent of a rose, soft light citrus fresh almost transparent. It would make an excellent room spray in a rose flower shop, as the flower shop next to the Costes Hotel on the photographs which Ron Slomowicz made. Roses in a bouquet in the Netherlands do not scent any more, but if they would, I would like them to scent like Eau Frappee.

Rose shop photographs were specially made by Ron Slomowicz. Thank you very much !

Photographs from the Iunx shop:http://www.thenonblonde.com/2011/09/iunx-perfumes-postcards-from-paris.html

More information on Iunx:  http://boisdejasmin.com/2005/06/iunx_10_edts_sp.html

*Previously published: Octobre 26th, 2012

Re edited August 12, 2016

Frederic Malle En Passant The scent of Spring passing through

In a search of perfumes made by the perfumer Olivia Giacobetti I came across the perfume En Passant. I already knew other perfumes made by her: Tilleul by Parfums d´Orsay and L´Ete en Douce by L´Artisan Parfumeur.

Olivia Giacobetti made En Passant for the exclusive brand Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums. Frederic Malle perfumes are very special in the sense that all perfumers were given the oportunity to create their own perfect perfume. All perfumers are displayed in the shop with their photograph.

Olivia Giacobetti Olivia Giacobetti´s perfumes can be very light and almost made for another realm, the one of elves and nymphs. Like making perfumes for Arwen Undómiel in Lord of the Rings played by Liv Tyler.

En Passant is a perfume inspired by the idea of passing through a branch of lilac flowers during spring. It means passing through in French. This makes En Passant an excellent scent to use in spring or if you want to invite spring into your life.

The most wonderful thing happened after I applied En Passant this week. After spraying En Passant, I passed a lilac bush near my home and I could smell a wonderful light trail of lilac. This was the whole intention of the perfume and I got it in an instant. Not complicated, just a light trail of lilac. The perfume En Passant is passing through as well on your skin as it leaves after two hours. Maybe that´s the whole idea although I have noticed Olivia Giacobetti has made more perfumes which do not stay on very long like L´Ete en Douce. When you spray it on, you get a wonderful fresh lilac scent. You would want it to stay that way for hours and hours. So personally I think it is a pity you can only smell it for a short while. The only remedy is to keep on spraying or to use it with the bodylotion and layer it that way. Haven´t tried the bodylotion but would really like to !

Passing through lilacs in Amsterdam

En Passant is simply lovely and fresh. Not fresh like fresh washed white cotton shirts but like light fresh white or pink flowers. Personally I smell lilacs, cucumber and linden blossom. Some others state notes are white lilac, watery notes, cucumber, orange tree leaves and wheat. En Passant really reminded me of another of Olivia´s perfumes, the linden blossom scent Tilleul by Parfum d´Orsay. This is an adaptation of an older version of Parfums d’ Orsay Tilleul and it is one of my favorite perfumes. Both Tilleul and L´Ete en Douce are wonderful summer perfumes.

En Passant is superb to wear right now that lilacs blossom outside and it is springtime. It would make an excellent gift for a young girl as her first perfume as well. I can imagine it be suited for people who do not like to wear perfume as it is so fresh and stays very close to your skin.

Bottom line: I love it. My advice: Just smell it !

Photograph of Olivia Courtesy of Guillaume Luisetti, http://www.luisetti.net/ Thank you very much !

Originally published: May 10th 2012

Photograph 1. Olivia Giacobetti. Made by Guillaume Luisetti

Photograph 2. Passing through lilacs in Amsterdam. Made by Esperessence