Hilde Soliani

Hilde Soliani Luce A brand new day !

takingflightSome months ago I tested many Hilde Soliani fragrances. I really loved scenting these perfumes as they are so different from other fragrances I have tried before. Hilde Soliani is an Italian perfumer with a passion for teatre and Italian haute cuisine. The Hilde Soliani Facebook page shows her many times near a master chef and helping him with his cooking. Hilde Soliani has 4 different perfume lines.  Profumo e gusto in liberta was inspired by haute cuisine dishes. Teatro Olfattivo di Parma was inspired by local theatre in Parma.  Ti amo was inspired by flowers and Gli Invisibili was inspired by emotional events in her personal life. Some bottles might seem a bit odd. At first I was put off a bit by the bottles of the Gli Invisibili line with a crucifix on them.

What struck me most about Hildes fragrances was the joy they brought me and probably the pleasure of Hilde making her fragrances. They are different from anything I have tried before, very original and fresh. Their structure does not seem very complicated. They do not change a lot on my skin as other perfumes might do. But their simplicity might be deceiving. They are really well made. Hilde is very original in her combination of scents like strawberry and salt in Fraaagola Saalaaata and custard cream with cherries flavoured leaves of tobacco in Doolciiisssimo.

One of the fragrances I enjoyed most was Luce of the Profumo e Gusto in Liberta line. Luce means light in Italian and was inspired by the birth of a child of a friend of Hilde, a new born child bringing light to the earth and joy to the ones around him/her. Personally I would find it more logical if Luce would have been in the Gli Invisibli line, a liquid emotion and not in the haute cuisine line.

birth2010Luce is all about powder, baby powder. Somehow it reminded me of the almond coated sweets given to visitors when a child is born in Spain and maybe other countries too. It would be very suited to scent a birth announcement card with Luce. Hilde Soliani keeps her notes/ingredients secret like a master chef who does not convey his recipes. The emotion Luce brought me was of pure joy, the same pleasure I experience while watching the scene brand A brand new day (everybody rejoice) in the movie The Wiz (1978).  But at the same time Luce is very relaxing and comforting.  A very interesting combination, bringing delight and cosiness at the same time.

Luce is sold in a 100 ml bottle. I really wish Hilde Soliani would introduce a discovery set of her fragrances or smaller 30 ml bottles as Parfums de Nicolai does. Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer recently introduced an explorer set and the French perfume brand Jul et Mad small 5 ml bottles.

Give Luce a try if you like other (very different takes on powder) perfumes like:

Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige

Laura Tonatto Dama

Parfums de Nicolai Kiss me Tender

Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (according to Patricia de Nicolaï, perfumer and the president of the

Osmothèque perfume conservatory, the universal symbol of the word powdery in perfumes)

 

A sample of Luce was provided for pr purposes. This did not influence my review.

Paintings Taking flight 2011 and Birth 2010 are both made by Henriette Hackenberg.

 

Originally published November 4, 2013

 

update march 12th 2014 : Hilde Soliani informed Luce is from the Momenti line

 

A brand new day / Everybody Rejoice The Wiz

Hilde Soliani Conaffetto Candied Orange Blossom

Hilde 1

Conaffetto is a fragrance made by the Italian Perfumer Hilde Soliani. It is part of her Profumo e questa in liberta series. This line is based on the Italian Haute Cuisine which is a great love of Hilde Soliani. Some of her perfumes (including Conaffetto) are almost edible. Conaffetto means with affection in Italian.  Hilde Soliani made this perfume for a dear friend who was getting married. Its ingredients are almonds, sugar and orange blossom, very appropriate for a wedding.

Orange blossom is used in wedding bouquets in certain countries and sugar coated almonds (Jordan Almonds) are given at weddings. Almonds sweetened with honey were first used in ancient Rome in weddings. The hard candy coating started in the 15th century. These candies are called Jordan Almonds in the US but confetti in Italy. The bitter almonds symbolize the bitterness of life and the sweet coating the sweetness of love.

I really like the idea of a perfume made for a very special occasion in one’s life. Luce (see my previous review) was for a child’s birth of a friend of Hilde Soliani and Conaffetto for a wedding. Luce could be used to scent birth cards and Conafetto could be used to scent wedding invitations.

 

What does it smell like ?

 

The scent starts with a bitter almond note in the top. Then it evolves into orange blossom with a slightly bitter edge. After this the orange blossom becomes  sweeter, reminding me of candied violets. Not their scent but the violet candies themselves. If orange blossoms could be candied they would scent like this. It is almost as if you can eat this orange blossom. The orange blossom, almonds and sugar are very well blended. Some mention on the Fragantica website they scent bitter almonds  I get  bitter almonds quite clearly in the beginning and a bitter note at the middle but to me it could be a bit of bitter orange mixed with bitter almonds. The orange blossom is a not indolic at all, but much more tamed, not yet fully blooming, like a woman in her early/mid twenties there is still some innocence about her. The drydown is like an orange blossom water almond cookie with all the ingredients very well blended together.

What does it do ?

Conaffetto brings a feeling of softness, ease and affection. Like getting a hug from a very dear loving friend. Light and soft with a touch a innocence. 

I really like this fragrance, together with Luce made by Hilde Soliani as well, they are my favorites. It is a different and original take on an orange blossom perfume. But I do not love it enough to buy a large 100 ml bottle. If smaller 15 or 30 ml bottles were sold, I would seriously consider buying a bottle.

Sillage: ***

Longevity: ***/****

Notes according to Luckyscent: orange blossom, sugar, almonds

Origin of sample: pr 

February 3, 2014

Pictures:

Picture 1: Rébé 1963 Harry Meerson Wedding Dress www.hprints.com

Picture 2: Rene Ruau for Marcella Alix www.hpprints.com,

Picture 3: Bas Balenciaga www.hpprints.com