Nicolaï, Parfums

A selection of perfumes and home fragrances made by the French perfume house Nicolaï, Paris and perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï

Mood Scent 4 Orange Blossom, Fruit and Branches

It’s is time for our monthly Mood Scent 4 post! Where Portia (on A Bottled Rose), Samantha  (I Scent You A Day), Megan (Megan In Sainte Maxime) and I write about a different subject relating to perfume. This time we concentrate on the bitter orange tree also known as Seville orange tree or it’s official Latin name: citrus aurantium var. amara (or bigaradia). It might be due to my Spanish heritage but I love everything from the bitter orange tree, Neroli, Orange Blossom and Petit Grain, which I will discuss in this post and three of my favourites perfumes.

First some background about the different parts of the bitter orange tree which are used in perfumery; the twigs/branches and leaves, orange blossom and peel. The bitter orange fruit can not be eaten as it is too bitter but the peel is used to make Seville marmelade. The tree was brought to Spain by the Arabs in the 8/9th century. 

Cold-pressing the orange fruit peel produces bigarade, which is the essential oil of the bitter orange, distilling the twigs and leaves gives petit grain (bigarade, this method is also used for other citrus fruits like mandarin and lemon) and the orange blossoms result in neroli using steam distillation while the same flowers result in precious orange blossom absolute by using solvent extraction.

To make things even more diffuse, there is another kind of very bitter orange tree on the Caribbean island Curaçao which is used to make the liqueur Blue Curaçao. This tree is called laraha (in Latin C. aurantium var. currassuviencis). 

Some perfumes are a tribute to the whole bitter orange tree like Neroli Intense from Patricia de Nicolai and Ramon Monegal Entre Naranjos. I will discuss both in this post.

Parfums de Nicolai Intense Eau de Parfum

Neroli Intense is a tribute from French perfumer Patricia de Nicolai to the whole bitter orange tree. With its refreshing green crisp leaves reminiscent of a recently steam ironed white cotton shirt, blossoming orange flowers dripping of honey and sweet candied mandarin, each part of the bitter orange tree is captured in a refined and elegant Eau de Parfum. The tart green orange tree leaves stay around for a few hours, showing Patricia de Nicolais talent and craftsmanship as a perfumer. This longevity is a true delight for those of us who are always disappointed by its usual short presence in fragrances.

Ramon Monegal Entre Naranjos

In Entre Naranjos (meaning Among Orange Trees in Spanish) Spanish perfumer Ramon Monegal created an even crispier tribute to the bitter orange tree by adding a large amount of petit grain from the leaves of the bitter orange tree creating a colognesque scent.

Tradionally neroli, petit grain, flowers (roses) and herbs (rosemary or lavender), spices and some woody notes are used in cologne. But Ramon Monegal uses refreshing spearmint instead of rosemary and a touch of clove reminiscent of the classic Spanish cologne Alvarez Gomez from 1912. This way adding a modern and Spanish touch to the fragrance.

Entre Naranjos wears luxurious due to the anchoring woody cedarwood, patchouli and amber accord providing more depth and longevity to the fragrance. Luckily you can still smell Entre Naranjos after a few hours unlike a typical cologne.

In Andalusian (in Southern Spain) cities like Seville, Cordoba and Malaga bitter Orange trees decorate the old centres, scenting it’s narrrow streets and squares. Entre Naranjos brings to mind walking in the centre of Malaga with its small blossoming orange trees and passing a handsome elegantly dressed Spanish man scenting of recently used shaving cream and an expensive cologne. 

Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger 

Fleurs d’Oranger is probably one of my most worn orange blossom fragrances. Although it means orange flower, Fleurs d’Oranger smells of lush white orange blossoms and tuberose. These flowers smell as bold the glitz and glam of the 1980s with its oversized shoulder pads and wavy long hair. Not freshly picked dewy petals in the morning but flowers in full bloom at the end of the day leaving the impression of blossoming flowers dripping of thick honey.

Fleurs d’Oranger smells like golden luminous sunshine shining on the pavement of an avenue near the Mediterranean Sea at the end of a late summers day.

These are the three bitter orange (neroli, orange blossom and petit grain) fragrances I picked.  Have a look on Samantha’s blog I Scent You A Day Megan’s blog  Megan in St. Maxime  and Portia on A Bottled Rose! I love to read their picks and see what they chose. Sometimes we choose the same fragrances which is great as we don’t know the scents we will pick.

Do you like orange blossom, neroli or petit grain in perfumes? Which ones are your favorites ?

More posts of bitter orange fragrances I wrote include: Penhaligon’s Castile A scent of Azahar ,  Parfums d{Empire Azemour ,  Editions Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade . 

Disclosure: All fragrances mentioned in this article were bought by me. I won Neroli Intense in a contest at the Perfume Lounge. Bottles which are sold now, could be different from the ones on the photograph. The Serge Lutens bottle is from January 2009. I haven’t tried other Fleurs d’Oranger formulations but can imagine more recent formulations being different.

All the photographs were made by me and an artistic expression.

 

Mood Scent 4 Unsung Heroes Perfumes

It is Mood Scent 4 time again! Where Portia (now on A Bottled Rose), Sam (I Scent You A Day) Megan (Megan In Sainte Maxime) and I write about a joined subject each month, linking fragrance to mood or occasion. This time we picked unsung heroes! Those brilliant perfumes which undeservingly don’t get the attention they deserve.

We have returned to the new normal in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. As some parts of town are too crowded mouth protection needs to be worn in certain streets, markets but not everywhere on the streets. Still a bit strange and getting used too. We were planning to go to Spain in this period but we are staying closer to home visiting the Southern part of The Netherlands, Limburg so I am a bit in a holiday mood for this article too. Back to Unsung Heroes again with Ruth Mastenbroek Amorosa!

Ruth Mastenbroek Amorosa Eau de Parfum – Zest For Italian Life! 

Notes: Galbanum, Violet Leaf, Watermelon, Tuberose, Jasmine, Tiare, Ylang Ylang, Vetiver, Patchouli and Amber Year: 2012  Fragrance Family: Floral

Ruth Mastenbroek Amorosa is an unsung perfume hero which surprisingly hasn’t gotten much attention online. Ruth Mastenbroek is a long time perfumer, former president of the British Society of Perfumers and trained chemist. She started her own perfume brand in 2010 and has created fragrances for brands like Jo Malone (the famous grapefruit candle is her creation) before starting her own brand.

Amorosa was the second fragrance Ruth Mastenbroek launched for her brand. Meaning ‘a woman in love’  in Italian, Amorosa was inspired by her love for Italy. It is a luxurious and classic baroque floral fragrance. Full of abundant creamy flowers (tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang and tiare), sweet juicy summer fruits, contrasting green fresh garden leaves with a surprising modern twist by the added refreshing watermelon note.

Ruth Mastenbroek created this fragrance celebrating life and happy time spent in her holiday home in green hilled Umbria, Italy. The innovative use of fizzy refreshing watermelon makes this a very interesting Eau de Parfum. It took me several wearings to appreciate the fresh aquatic note combined with the rich classic bouquet of flowers but it was definitely worth a wait. Amorosa is a must try for (White) Floral fragrance lovers looking for something slightly different and original. Wearing Amorosa adds a sparkle to the day and feeling of zest for life.

Ramon Monegal The Essentials Collection Mon Patchouly – Happy Ibiza Jasmine 

Notes: Indonesian Patchouli, Oak moss absolute, Frankincense, Geranium bourbon, Egyptian jasmine and Amber accord.  Year: 2009 Fragrance Family: Mossy Woods/Chypre

Mon Patchouly is another unsung heroes which undeservingly does not get a lot of attention. Although called My Patchouly this is more a fragrance for non patchouli lovers, as it is full of ethereal jasmine. This fragrance stays away from the usual wet earth scent the patchouli leaf is known for and focuses on its lesser known ethereal floral side. Mon Patchouly smells like little sweet sugared jasmine flowers dipped in bitter chocolate powder with some green piney frankincense. I get a gourmand touch as well of very light creamy coconut and whipped cream. This is not a night blossoming faecal* (smelling of excrements and found in small traces in indolic floral oils like jasmine absolute) jasmine but an innocent happy white jasmine flower.

Mon Patchouly is part of The Essentials Collection which was the first Collection to be launched in 2009 when Ramon Monegal started his own perfume brand after working for his family owned perfume and make up brand Myrurgia. The heavy perfume bottle is called Inkwell, not very practical but a beautiful design of Ramon Monegal nonetheless.

Nicolai Parfumeur Juste Un Reve – Cocktails On An Exclusive Tropical Island  

Notes: peach, coconut, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, sandalwood, vanilla Year: 1996 Fragrance Family: Floral Fruity 

Juste Un Reve meaning just a dream in French, is another perfume which does not get a lot of attention. It is slightly reminiscent of tropical floral fragrances like Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess but more elegant plus added sweet fruits. If Bronze Goddess was a summer dress it would a short white cotton dress to go to the beach. Just Un Reve would be an elegant satin silk long dress to go for evening cocktails in an exclusive holiday resort on a tropical island.

Tuberose flowers and tropical lush ylang ylang are very well blended by perfumer Patricia de Nicolai with  light coconut and sweet ripe velvety peach. Juste Un Reve makes an excellent summer holiday fragrance even if you are staying home. I have finished 2 bottles of this fragrance which only shows how much I love this.

Over To My Mood Scent 4 Pals
These are my 3 picks for Unsung Heroes. Have a look on Sam’s blog on I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia on A Bottled Rose to read their surprising picks.

I Love To Hear From You
I hope you enjoyed my Unsung Heroe picks which are slightly holiday oriented as well. Hopefully you are able to stay safe, centered, positive and healthy with everything happening around us. Please leave your choices for unsung heroes in my comments or your thought on my choices. I love to hear from you!

Disclosure: all photographs were made by me. The jasmine flower (called Biznaga) on the second photograph was handmade and based on the floral tradition in Malaga, Southern Spain to make these flowers by hand. You can read more about the Biznaga here.  The Amorosa bottle is an older model. The fragrance comes in other bottles now.

 

Mood Scent 4 Super Power Perfumes

II
It is Mood Scent 4 time again! Where 4 bloggers from around the world share our views on the same subject linking perfume to mood or occasion. This time Portia (now on A Bottled Rose), Sam  (I Scent You A Day) and Megan (Megan In Sainte Maxime) and I picked Super Power Perfumes as a subject as all of us could use some Super Power during this exceptional period of lock down or semi lock down.

While being semi quarantined in Amsterdam I have spent time enjoying blossoming flowers and admiring nature’s resilience while walking outside. In The Netherlands luckily we were allowed to have our daily walk in the first 6 weeks of the “intelligent” semi lock down. This week hairdressers reopen, restaurants will opening in the beginning of June.

I have been spending a lot of time at our allotment and gardening with the help of Peter luckily. We are very grateful for our garden these days. A yoga school near my home started doing online lessons which I do now as well. Very easy yin yoga and restorative from the comfort of my living room and a way to support local shop owners as well.

During my daily walks I have seen different flowers in bloom following their natural rhythm like magnolia, tulips and the current white and purple lilacs. Being completely honest; flowers have given me more strength and solace than perfume lately but these fragrances boost my confidence, give me hope or strength: Nicolai New York Intense, Pure Distance Master Perfumes M and Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon. Nicolai New York Intense is one of the fragrances I reach for most when in need for a boost of confidence or strength. Long lasting uplifting  bergamot and lemon on a warm oriental base of oakmoss, vanilla and frankincense never seize to amaze me as it is both multifaceted, rich and sophisticated. It is said to be the signature fragrance of its maker perfumer Patricia de Nicolai which does not surprise me. 

Another confidence booster is Pure Distance M which I recently won in a photography contest. Inspired by a James Bond Aston Martin Car this perfume smells full bodied and complex like the slightly used rich black leather interior from a very expensive car and some added precious resinous frankincense mixed with spices like cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and clove. As Nicolai New York Intense, M leans towards masculine.

The ultra chic Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon is another confidence booster and one I tend to reach for when I want to feel elegant despite the outfit I am wearing. 31 Rue Cambon wears like dark pink smooth velvet fabric, both comfortable and opulent in a classic way. Wearing this fragrance makes me feel like everything will be alright whatever the outcome will be for us, our family and friends, our communities and our planet.

These are my 3 picks of Super Power Perfumes. Have a look on Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime  and Portia on A Bottled Rose to read their picks and see how they are doing during this exceptional period. I am very curious, aren’t you?

I hope you and your loved ones are able to stay healthy, calm, centred, and positive during this period we are all experiencing.

Do you use perfume to feel more confident or strong now? Which one do you use?

Disclosure: all photographs made by Esperessence. Last photograph is a view of one of the Vondelpark entrances.