Laboratoria Olfattivo (LO) is a not very well known Italian brand which deserves much more attention. It was founded in 2009. Many of its fragrances are worth a try. It’s price (30 ml/40 euro and 100 ml/100 euro) are quite reasonable compared to prices from other perfume houses and some of its scents are fabulous. I also like the modern design of their bottles and packaging. My personal favorites are Kashnoir, Decou-Vert and Salina. Perfumers Cecile Zarokian and Pierre Guillaume have made fragrances for LO. Last year LO introduced 30 mls spray bottles, which can only be applauded.
Salina is a small Italian island in the Mediterranean Sea, north of Sicily. The word salina means salt lake. Salt lakes were used on the island for the production of salt by evaporating sea water salt was produced. In certain parts in the world salt is still produced this way. The island was the inspiration for the eau de parfum.
Salina Eau de Parfum evokes the scent of salty skin after a dip in the sea at a secluded warm sandy beach. The herbaceous wormwood and lavender giving the impression of a natural beach with low bushes where one can retreat in the shadow under some pine trees. It is a fairly modern and invigorating scent. At times it is almost as if I get a whiff of chlorine, which adds a contemporary and clean touch to the fragrance.
Reviews on fragantica, basenotes and from some bloggers are very mixed. Some found Salina horrible and too intrusive. I like Salina and own a 100 mls full bottle. But I can imagine people finding it too aggresive especially its chlorine note. Personally Salina reminds me of visits with my parents and their friends to a solitary Mediterranean natural beach in Southern Spain. A beautiful quiet place to swim and sun. I only use Salina when I crave for the beach on a very warm day and I am not able to go. It cleanses me like sea salt and water do. In other days it can be too intrusive for me as well. I would recommend to sample before you buy.
Have you tried fragrances from Laboratorio Olfattivo? If so, which one is your favorite?
Notes: (according to official website)
Top: Lemon Peel, Marine Salt, Pine Needles
Heart: Hot Sand, Myrtle, Wormwood, Marine Spurts, Lavender
Base: Vanilla, White Musk, Cedar
Perfumer: David Maruitte ( who also made Heeley Menthe Fraiche, the re edition of Le Galion Whip and Especially for Gentleman)
American perfumer Shelley Waddington of Envoyage Perfumes will release a new fragrance on the weekend of May 14. I recently I interviewed Shelley Waddington about her upcoming perfume.
What was your inspiration for your new fragrance?
Eight months ago I moved to a new state and relocated my home to the Pacific Northwestern part of the US. The culture here is deeply influenced by its Native Americans beginnings. It is also known for being a rainy part of the country, and for having millions of acres of pristine forests of cedar, fir, redwood and pine. I was immediately inspired to make a new fragrance and I’ve been developing it ever since.
I read you made a fragrance using native natural materials while living before in Carmel. How come you are so interested in working with native natural materials and how do you know which materials were used in Portland. Is it well documented? Are these materials easy to find?
I learned perfuming using only natural materials and these materials are my first love. They are responsible for imparting vibrancy and life to my perfumes. Naturals are sadly lacking in commercial perfumes and that’s partly why artisanal fragrances have risen so much in popularity.
The natural materials I select for each are integral to the story being told. For me it’s a small leap from naturals to the realm of local materials, their history of use in spirit and medicine, their ethnobotanical uses. It often takes a fair amount of research. It’s part of my passion and my artistic journey.
You moved from Carmel, California to Portland, Oregon. Could you tell us why?
For several years I’ve been eyeing Portland as the place that is cleaner, greener, less commercial and more like the simple California that I grew up in. The arrival of my new grandson clinched the deal!
How did you prepare for your new fragrance?
A big move like this demands a willingness for reinvention and for seeing the world with fresh vision. In that state of mind, I’ve been exploring, meeting people, learning about and enjoying the new culture and surroundings.
How long has it taken you to make your new fragrance?
I’ve been in the Pacific Northwest since September. I started working on this as soon as I arrived 8 months ago.
In what way did the new city where your are living influence your new fragrance?
It’s strongly influenced by my new home in Portland Oregon, which is also known as The Rose City; its Native American origins, its native plants, its misty, rainy weather, and its clean environment that is so supportive of health and creativity.
As you are living in such a different place with such a different climate as well much colder. Is your new fragrance very different from what you have made before?
I believe so. The exhilaration of being in a new location where everything is crisp and clean, I like to think some of this is conveyed.
And a more personal question do your fragrances contain a message? It feels like they do.
You’re right, each of my fragrances tells a meaningful story. Knowing that is important to fully understanding my work.
We’ve talked a little about the things that motivated this new fragrance, but the story it tells is an equally important part of the inspiration. When it launches I will be able to fully disclose.
What is your personal goal by making fragrances?
At the most obvious level, to bring beauty and enjoyment. But there is always the story that will touch in a different way. Not everything is so obvious.
What notes do you like personally?
I’ve always liked styrax and cedar leaves and vanilla. Another of my favorites is Cyperus scariosis, known in English as cypriol and in Hindi as nagarmotha. It’s a beautiful woody, earthy note that was called for in this fragrance.
I think of perfume notes as much in terms of their cultural traditions as of what other perfumers have used them for, but cyperus is a note that is sometimes used in high quality perfumes such as Amouage Library Opus VI and by Agonist in Black Amber.
Lastly, although I can’t yet disclose the name, or the full story, I can say that this new eau de parfum is a bright mossy chypre for men and women, and that the notes include:
Incense, Patchouli, Iris, Rhododendron*
Mossy Rain Forest
My last questions are more general about your perfumes and becoming a perfumer. When did you start making perfumes? And what was the reason for it? And how did you start? Are your perfumes sold in Europe?
I began my journey in perfumemaking in 1998. I was in love with the natural oils that were just becoming available to people outside of the closed world of professional perfumers. I began my study with a few other perfumers that were experienced and willing to share and mentor me.
My fragrances are purchased widely by individuals all across Europe (and other parts of the world). I formulate according to US standards, thus I don’t distribute to any resellers outside of the US.
Thank you very much for this interview, Shelley. I very much look forward to scent your new fragrance. The new Envoyage Perfumes fragrance will be released on the weekend of May 14, 2016.
Photographs provided by Shelley Waddington. Photograph 1: famous waterfall of Portland,OR
my own addition: the introduction of the note rhododendron is a new note which Shelley Waddington just made public. I found this very interesting as I have not seen it used very much as a perfume note. If you are interested in scented rhododendrons and want to read more about the so called smellies click here. Most fragrant rhododendrons seem to have a palette of whites and soft pastels. Its fragrance helps to attract insect pollinators. Other rhododendrons seem to attract the insects with their color. There are only 18 other perfumes listed on the fragantica website with a rhododendron note including Estee Lauder Intuition and Stella McCartney Sheer, 2 by Olympic Orchids and 3 fragrances made y JoAnne Bassett.
In my English Classics Bookclub we just discussed Daphne du Maurier Rebecca. I brought perfumes to suit the main caracters in the book. Rebecca was written in 1938 and filmed by Alfred Hitchcock in 1940. I found it an interesting and at times haunting book with the dead Rebecca de Winter in the leading role. It starts with the very catching and famous sentence: ‘Last night I dreamt I went to Manderley again.’
For the three main caracters Rebecca de Winter, Maxim de Winter and the young nameless second Mrs de Winter I choose fragrances which would suit them as a person. It was great fun to do. All of the fragrances were from my own perfume collection so I could bring the bottles for people to sniff.
Rebecca the first Mrs de Winter, beautiful, ruthless, evil and chameleonic with the people around her. I choose the rich floral and creamy Isabey Gardenia for her glamorous evenings at the Mandeley estate in Cornwall. For her secret life in London I choose the darker mysterious Mona di Orio Oudh Osmanthus. In the book the clothes of Rebecca were said to smell of powdery of azalea (rhodondendron) but I have never found a scenting azalea or a fragrance centered around azalea.
Maxim de Winter, widower and a handsome elegant man in his forties. In the beginning of the book Maxim walks out of the bathroom while shaving to meet the young nameless (soon to be) Mrs de Winter. An intimate scene, which inspired me to look for a classic cologne like Aqua di Parma Colonia.
The second Mrs de Winter, very young, attractive, a bit of a grey mouse in my opinion but others from the Book Club saw her as girlish, pretty and not yet fully developed. As she did not have much money I chose a cheaper fragrance. There are many references in the book to flowers in the garden like azalea, roses and lilacs. The beautiful, lilac centered discontinued Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Lilas would have suited the young Mrs de Winter. The others thought so too. Maxim de Winter could have bought her a pretty fragrance like Dior La Collection Privee Grand Bal.
These are the fragrances I choose. What do you think of them? Have you read Rebecca or did you see the Hitchcock film? Did you like it?
photograph 1 and 2 taken from the Internet, photograph 3 was made by me.
Disclaimer: all fragrances which I brought to the meeting were bought by me. The large Dior Grand Bal sample was a kind gift from Tara.