Marie Salamagne

Mood Scent 4 : Mid Season Magic : Autumn Perfumes

It’s time for a new episode of Mood Scent 4 together with fellow bloggers Sam from I Scent You A Day, Megan from Megan in St. Maxime and Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies!  This month we have chosen to write about “mid season magic”.  Portia will be writing from Australia about Spring fragrances, the rest of us about Autumn perfumes.

Autumn is a wonderful season in The Netherlands with its beautiful orange, red coloured leaves and the sun shining it’s filtered golden warm light. I love Autumn in Amsterdam especially sunny days can be very magical.

Warmer, sweeter or woody perfumes might be more suited to wear during Autumn as it is getting colder outside. I have chosen 5 fragrances which are very suited for this season, starting with Nicolaï Parfums New York Intense, Nicolaï Ambre Cashmere Intense, Imaginary Authors Memoir Of A Trespasser, Diptyque Volutes Eau de Parfum and Maison Marghiela Replica By the Fireplace.

Nicolai Discovery Set

Nicolaï Parfums New York Intense 

Notes: bergamot, Sicilian lemon, clove, thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, pimento, oakmoss, vetiver, amber

New York Intense starts with sunny citrus notes of petit grain of the lemon tree, sweet lemon and bergamot like golden Autumn sunlight shimmering through Autumn leaves brightening up your day. Interestingly the citrus notes last for hours. Changing much later into a warm base of patchouli, vanilla, incense with sweet brightening accents of orange rind. It is perfume critic Luca Turin’s favorite for a very good reason. Made by one of my favorite perfumers Patricia de Nicolaï, current president of the scent archive in Versailles Osmothèque.

Nicolai Ambre Cashmere Intense

Nicolaï Parfums Ambre Cashmere Intense 

Notes: black pepper, mandarine, lemon, iris butter, violets, clove, vanilla, benzoin, styrax

Ambre Cashmere Intense is a sweet, warm powdery feminine fragrance which envelopes you like a cashmere blanket keeping you warm and comfortable for hours. It is a rather sweet fragrance but leaves out sugar cotton candy accents that have defined many perfumes in the last decade. The added boozy notes make it well rounded and interesting. Ambre Cashmere Intense could easily be called London Intense with its luxurious easygoing style like some Ormonde Jayne fragrances without the accompanying price tag. This is the first fragrance perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï created with her son Axel.

Imaginary Authors Memoirs Of a Trespasser

Imaginary Authors /  Memoirs of a Trespasser 

Notes: vanilla, gaiac wood, myrrh, benzoin, oak barrels accord

A must try for lovers of vanilla perfumes, Memoirs of a Trespasser wears like a soft vanilla blanket with an accompanying glass of high quality cognac. Uncomplicated and comfortable.

Diptyque Volutes

Diptyque Volutes Eau de Parfum 

Notes: honey, opoponax, cinnamon, iris accord

A trip along the former spice route by ship with spicy pepper, cinnamon, sweet tobacco and clove. Lightly dusted, leaving a powdery trail with some added honey and almond accents in the beginning. Inspired by transatlantic journeys by ship from Marseille to Saigon by one of the founders Yves Coueslant with elegant ladies on the deck smoking sweet tobacco cigarettes wearing powdery lipstick.

Maison Marghiela MMM Replica By the Fireplace 

Notes: pink pepper, orange blossom, cloves, chestnut, gaiacwood, juniper, vanilla, peru balsam, cashmeran

This warm, earthy and sweet fragrance was created (not very surprising) with the idea of spending an evening by the fire. Imagine marshmallows burning over a fireplace, sweet vanilla and light burning wood, damp mac raincoat and wellies drying on a nearby chair and you get an idea. Makes you wish for winter to come (pun intended).

Autumn in Amsterdam, Vondelpark

 

Have a look on the Sam’s blog I Scent You A Day, Megan’s  Megan in St. Maxime and Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies to read their picks for autumn and spring.

What are your favourite autumn choices? Have worn one already?

Disclosure : all photographs were made by Esperessence, all fragrances were my own acquisition or a gift with purchase.

Mood Scent 4 : Mainstream Perfumes : Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Tendre Jasmin, Accord Chic, Vanille Noir

 

Welcome to MoodScent 4!

We are four perfume bloggers based in France, Holland, England and Wales who post on a different joint subject every couple of months. This time we have chosen Mainstream perfumes. You will find links to the other blogs at the end of the post. We hope you have fun reading our different choices and adding your own selection in the comments!

The Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection 

As some of you already know, I love the Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection so I chose a couple of fragrances from this product line for mini reviews: Accord Chic, Tendre Jasmin and Vanille Noir. I reviewed Rose Oud earlier this year (see link at the end) and I plan on writing about Neroli soon.

The Secrets d’Essences Collection focuses on raw materials in perfumery like vanilla (2010), jasmine (2008), neroli (2013), iris (2007) and rose (2006). The Collection launched in 2005 with Voile d’Ambre.

I have all fragrances from this line as they can be found regularly on Marktplaats (Dutch eBay) for a decent price. Small 5 ml bottles can be bought at Yves Rocher for sampling. Recently they had 3 bottles on sale for 5 euro. Personally I find most of the scents fairly linear but very well made for a decent price and excellent to layer with, except for the intriguing dark Rose Oud.

Tendre Jasmin 

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier(Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique)

Notes: Jasmine Grandiflorum Abs., Jasmine Sambac Abs., Mimosa Abs., Orange Blossom Abs., Lemon, Mandarin. Orange

After starting with rather annoying synthetic aromachemicals, Tendre Jasmin continues as a clean floral bouquet with a bit of a green fresh touch. There is nothing edgy about this scent, no animals or índoles but a beautiful light jasmine fragrance.

Layer with: Accord Chic

Tendre Jasmin in a few words: happy, careless like a butterfly, light, virginal floral, pristine Jasmine

Accord Chic 

Perfumers:  Olivier Cresp (also known for creating Thierry Mugler Angel) and Marie Salamagne

Notes: pink pepper, elemi, iris, benzoin and frankincense

Starting with a spicy note of activating pink pepper and elemi with a sweet balsamic undertone probably from the benzoin, this fragrance changes quickly into a slightly dusty, sweeter and smoother scent. The frankincense adds a greener and slightly damp note to the whole fragrance. After a few hours what remains is a smooth scent which reminds me of liquorice. Longevity is excellent after 7 hours I can still smell a trace.

The image I get, when I smell Accord Chic, is from a well dressed elegant lady in a thin black wool sweater and long white wide wool pants. Looking closer you can see these are luxurious designer clothes. The name Chic in the perfume is very fitting but I find Accord horrendous as a perfume name. If this scent was sold by a niche perfume house this fragrance could easily become a bestseller. This fragrance is well worth a try.

Layer with:  Tendre Jasmin to enhance the floral heart or with Vanille Noir to link the benzoin in Accord Chic with the vanilla in the Vanille Noir to create a warmer fragrance.

Accord Chic in a few words: casual elegance and chic, refined, introverted, calm, intriguing

Vanilla Noir 

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier

Notes: mandarin, mimosa, Vanilla Bourbon, Ugandan Vanilla, Tahitian Vanilla, leather, cedar wood, orange blossom

This slightly dry vanilla seems to go directly to the base with sweet powder, liquid caramel and comforting woody notes. After a few hours what remains on the skin is a warm woody anisic skin scent.  I find Vanilla Noir to be quite linear and not very interesting in the beginning but it turns into a  fabulous warm comforting fragrance after a few hours. It is an excellent fragrance to layer with Guerlain Shalimar or Byredo Gypsy Water Eau de Cologne to enhance the vanilla in both.

Vanille Noir in a few words: warm, smooth, feels like a protective thin black soft wool blanket, comforting skin scent, not a gourmand vanilla

Layer with: Voile d’Ambre and Accord Chic, it probably works well with Neroli to create a fresh top note as well.


Bottom line: Tendre Jasmin, Accord Chic and Vanille Noir are all well worth a try, I find Accord Chic the most intriguing and Vanilla Noir the one I grew to like most.

Read my review of Annick Menardo’s dark rose creation for Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences and favorite from this collection here:  Rose Oud

Tara’s choices from A Bottled Rose, Megan’s from Megan in Sainte Máxime and Samantha’s from I I Scent You A Day can be found by clicking on the names of the websites. I am curious about their choices, aren’t you?

Have you tried this Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences Collection? Do you have a favourite fragrance? Which one do you like most or would you like to try?