Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre

imageSome perfumes should come with a warning as in a Thai restaurant saying how spicy it is.  If perfumes would come with 1, 2 or 3 peppers, referring to its spicyness, the eau de parfum Cinabre would have 3 peppers.

Cinabre is a spicy rose perfume made by Maria Candida Gentile in 2009. The combination of the rose with the black pepper in the beginning makes it very daring.  It gives the perfume a bite. This perfume is not a light tea rose but a strong powdery spicy hot rose. While wearing Cinabre, I feel daring and courageous. One would not think a rose perfume could do this.

Maria Candida Gentile is a female independent Italian perfumer with her own perfume house. She has developed 6 classic perfumes and 4 exclusive perfumes for her own line. All her perfumes are available online.

I have been wearing Cinabre for some days now and am struck by its beauty and originality. The bottle and perfume might look and smell very classic.  But the perfume has a very modern touch to it. Like a Burberry trench coat classic but modern at the same time.

At first I got a very powdery rose scent mixed with black pepper. After 15 to 20 minutes the pepper subdued and the scent became a light rose powdery perfume like smelling an expensive rose powdery soap. The soap scent subdues into a more creamy soft sweet rose after more or less an hour.

Notes according to the Maria Candida Gentile website are: black pepper, ginger, rose baies, Splendens rose, Moroccan Rose, benzoin, opoponax and vanilla. The perfume group is rich floral according to Michael Edwards.

The spicyness in this rose perfume brought to mind the image of being dressed completely in black and adding a very red bright scarf or wearing no makeup and adding red lipstick. Your complete image changes completely.

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According the official website of Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre means dragon blood, a crimson red resin from the Dragon Blood tree. Dragon blood was used for alchemy, health cure, for violins in the 18th century and used as lipstick.  The dragon blood tree is quite rare nowadays and grows primarily on an exotic island, Socotra in the Indian Ocean and is part of Yemen. The label of the very classic Cinabre perfume bottle is crimson red. Beautiful. For rose lovers, this eau de parfum is a must try. If you like Guerlain Nahema or Caron Parfum Sacre, give Cinabre a try. You could see Cinabre as a very distant little foreign niece of Nahema.

Coco Chanel said that women should not smell like roses but I think that even Coco would not mind to this modern interpretation of a rose perfume.

Origin of bottle my own

1. Photograph made by Pierre Javelle and Akiko Ida (Miniam Food Creative)

2. Picture was made by Rene Gruau

3. Painting made by Henriette Hackenberg, www.henriette-hackenberg.nl A card from this painting is available on her website as well.

Originally published Octobre 2012

Updated and re edited: November 25th, 2014

The Maria Candida Gentile Collection consists now of:  the collection Flight of the Bumblebee with three fragrances which was introduced in 2014, 8 eau de parfum the latest being Noir Tropical, 4 pure perfumes and 2 home fragrances.

 

 

 

MDCI Peche Cardinal

imageParfums MDCI (MDCI)  Peche Cardinal is a young, joyful and pretty fragrance. Wearing it makes me feel 16, innocent and charming like no other fragrance I have found.

It was the first perfume with a dominant tuberose note I enjoyed wearing and is one of my absolute favorites in my collection. What makes Peche Cardinal interesting is that although the tuberose note is dominant it displays a fresher  (greener ?) more innocent facet of the flower before becoming lush or even carnal. Peche Cardinal is a bit of shape shifter sometimes showing more of her sweet peach liquor side at other times more her creamy tuberose and coconut aspects.

One could say Peche Cardinal is a tuberose fragrance for beginners. Peche Cardinal was released in 2008 meaning Cardinal Sin.

The bottles come in two versions a simple more reasonably priced edition still expensive and one with a bisque stopper which looks beautiful and comes with a the Medici price tag. Both bottles are beautiful, although the one without the buste reminds me of the David Beckham glass bottles. The perfume has a beautiful peach pink orange color.

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All MDCI fragrances were made by very talented perfumers like Francis Kurkdjian, Patricia de Nicolai. Stephanie Bakouche, Cecile Zarokian, Amandine Marie and Bertrand Duchaufour.

I sampled most of the MDCI line some time ago buying a sample kit directly from the MDCI website, 8 small 12 ml splash bottles in an accompanying beautiful box. All buyers except people in the Netherlands can deduct the price of the sample box from their first full bottle. It is an excellent deal and a pity for people living in the Netherlands to be left out of this deal. Peche Cardinal was the fragrance I liked most from all the ones I tried.

Some people on the perfume website fragantica and Luckyscent did not believe Peche Cardinal was worth its price and could have been a main stream perfume. I agree with them this scent could have been one but only if better and more interesting main stream fragrances would be released. Although expensive I have not been able to find a cheaper alternative.

Notes according to Luckyscent: Davana, Peach, Coconut, Blackcurrent, Tuberose, Prune, Lily, Cedar, Sandelwood, Musc

Perfumer: Amandine Marie image

Fragrance family: Floral Fruity

Sillage: 3,5/5

Longevity: 3,5/5

Rating: 5/5

picture 1. Made by Rene Gruau, picture 2 taken from Luckyscent and picture 3 taken from the Parfums MDCI website

Origin of bottle and samples: my own

Scent & Subversion by Barbara Herman Book Review

The book Scent & Subversion is a small encyclopaedia of vintage perfumes with short but rather complete historic backgrounds, perfume notes and adds, giving a good idea of what some fragrances used to scent like before they were altered and why some of them were such ground breaking fragrances at their time. Barbara Herman published her book in 2013.

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It is not a book you read as a novel but more from time to time when you want some information and insight in certain periods or learn about certain vintage perfumes, ranging from the Icons of Modernity Guerlain Jicky, Fougere Royale (1882-1919) to Water, Water everywhere CK One, L’eau D’Issey (1990-2000).

Scent and Subversion is a book for people starting to like perfumes or hard core vintage lovers looking for comprehensive information about certain periods or fragrances.

I love reading it from time to time when a certain fragrance pops up on Ebay/Dutch Marktplaats and find it an excellent resource.

Available through: Amazon, Amazon.co.uk

Origin of book: my own

Rating: 5/5.

scentandsubversion