I wish you all a very happy Christmas. Feliz Navidad!
Last week I went to the Amsterdam Light Festival to see the centre of Amsterdam illuminated with works of art. Here is a short impression. It was raining so it was not a very good evening to make photographs or see the city but here is an impression nonetheless. The lighted tulips were a bit cheesy to my taste (yes, pun intended) but this was probably the whole intention. Enjoy it.
Have a merry, happy, enlightened and well scented Christmas!
For those of you with a perfume collection, do you know what scent you will be wearing for Christmas? I will probably wear Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice (delicious vanilla, fir and pine) or Penhaligon’s Cornubia (the scent of rich almonds due to the heliotrope and plush oranges, like wearing a red velvet dress).
American perfumer Shelley Waddington of Envoyage Perfumes will release a new fragrance on the weekend of May 14. I recently I interviewed Shelley Waddington about her upcoming perfume.
What was your inspiration for your new fragrance?
Eight months ago I moved to a new state and relocated my home to the Pacific Northwestern part of the US. The culture here is deeply influenced by its Native Americans beginnings. It is also known for being a rainy part of the country, and for having millions of acres of pristine forests of cedar, fir, redwood and pine. I was immediately inspired to make a new fragrance and I’ve been developing it ever since.
I read you made a fragrance using native natural materials while living before in Carmel. How come you are so interested in working with native natural materials and how do you know which materials were used in Portland. Is it well documented? Are these materials easy to find?
I learned perfuming using only natural materials and these materials are my first love. They are responsible for imparting vibrancy and life to my perfumes. Naturals are sadly lacking in commercial perfumes and that’s partly why artisanal fragrances have risen so much in popularity.
The natural materials I select for each are integral to the story being told. For me it’s a small leap from naturals to the realm of local materials, their history of use in spirit and medicine, their ethnobotanical uses. It often takes a fair amount of research. It’s part of my passion and my artistic journey.
You moved from Carmel, California to Portland, Oregon. Could you tell us why?
For several years I’ve been eyeing Portland as the place that is cleaner, greener, less commercial and more like the simple California that I grew up in. The arrival of my new grandson clinched the deal!
How did you prepare for your new fragrance?
A big move like this demands a willingness for reinvention and for seeing the world with fresh vision. In that state of mind, I’ve been exploring, meeting people, learning about and enjoying the new culture and surroundings.
How long has it taken you to make your new fragrance?
I’ve been in the Pacific Northwest since September. I started working on this as soon as I arrived 8 months ago.
In what way did the new city where your are living influence your new fragrance?
It’s strongly influenced by my new home in Portland Oregon, which is also known as The Rose City; its Native American origins, its native plants, its misty, rainy weather, and its clean environment that is so supportive of health and creativity.
As you are living in such a different place with such a different climate as well much colder. Is your new fragrance very different from what you have made before?
I believe so. The exhilaration of being in a new location where everything is crisp and clean, I like to think some of this is conveyed.
And a more personal question do your fragrances contain a message? It feels like they do.
You’re right, each of my fragrances tells a meaningful story. Knowing that is important to fully understanding my work.
We’ve talked a little about the things that motivated this new fragrance, but the story it tells is an equally important part of the inspiration. When it launches I will be able to fully disclose.
What is your personal goal by making fragrances?
At the most obvious level, to bring beauty and enjoyment. But there is always the story that will touch in a different way. Not everything is so obvious.
What notes do you like personally?
I’ve always liked styrax and cedar leaves and vanilla. Another of my favorites is Cyperus scariosis, known in English as cypriol and in Hindi as nagarmotha. It’s a beautiful woody, earthy note that was called for in this fragrance.
I think of perfume notes as much in terms of their cultural traditions as of what other perfumers have used them for, but cyperus is a note that is sometimes used in high quality perfumes such as Amouage Library Opus VI and by Agonist in Black Amber.
Lastly, although I can’t yet disclose the name, or the full story, I can say that this new eau de parfum is a bright mossy chypre for men and women, and that the notes include:
Incense, Patchouli, Iris, Rhododendron*
Mossy Rain Forest
My last questions are more general about your perfumes and becoming a perfumer. When did you start making perfumes? And what was the reason for it? And how did you start? Are your perfumes sold in Europe?
I began my journey in perfumemaking in 1998. I was in love with the natural oils that were just becoming available to people outside of the closed world of professional perfumers. I began my study with a few other perfumers that were experienced and willing to share and mentor me.
My fragrances are purchased widely by individuals all across Europe (and other parts of the world). I formulate according to US standards, thus I don’t distribute to any resellers outside of the US.
Thank you very much for this interview, Shelley. I very much look forward to scent your new fragrance. The new Envoyage Perfumes fragrance will be released on the weekend of May 14, 2016.
Photographs provided by Shelley Waddington. Photograph 1: famous waterfall of Portland,OR
my own addition: the introduction of the note rhododendron is a new note which Shelley Waddington just made public. I found this very interesting as I have not seen it used very much as a perfume note. If you are interested in scented rhododendrons and want to read more about the so called smellies click here. Most fragrant rhododendrons seem to have a palette of whites and soft pastels. Its fragrance helps to attract insect pollinators. Other rhododendrons seem to attract the insects with their color. There are only 18 other perfumes listed on the fragantica website with a rhododendron note including Estee Lauder Intuition and Stella McCartney Sheer, 2 by Olympic Orchids and 3 fragrances made y JoAnne Bassett.
The Sexiest scent on the Planet IMHO (The Sexiest) starts of with a very fresh citrus note, probably bergamot, which I like. To continue with the woody pine (some say cedarwood to me it smells like pine) and a very sweet and I mean very sweet vanilla, lemon meringue. The Guerlain Shalimar lemon meringue accord is an accord I am very fond of. But the lemon meringue note in The Sexiest, is too sweet for my taste. This smells more like the vanilla in Guerlain Jicky, which I am not too fond of.
The Sexiest feels to me like a very modern wink to two iconic Guerlains Jicky and Shalimar. Personally I prefer Shalimar as I find Jicky much too sweet. On my skin The Sexiest behaved more like Jicky and on paper like Shalimar. Just to be clear here, I see The Sexiest as a wink to Shalimar and Jicky. Maybe it was inspired by it, like a free modern interpretation of these two Guerlain fragrance.
Bottom line, does it radiate sex ? Not in my opinion. The painting shown at the beginning Satyr and Nymph (from 1623) does. But if you associate a Finnish sauna with sex you might associate The Sexiest with sex. And steam. The Finns will not agree.*
Notes: Gin, bergamot, vanilla, woods, musk, ambergris ( according to Lucky Scent)
Painting: Satyr and Nymph to be seen at The Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.
*Note: the official travel guide of Finland clearly mentions on its website, in the article 10 sauna tips for beginners, that sauna has nothing to do with sex. Funny they mention this so clearly.