In Conversation With Satori Osawa – Parfum Satori


A few weeks ago I meet Japanese perfumer Satori Osawa at the niche perfume shop The Perfume Lounge in Amsterdam. The Perfume Lounge is the only store which sells Parfum Satori in Europe (except a pop-up store in Paris) at this moment.

Satori Osawa was born in Tokyo and opened her perfume salon Parfum Satori in 2000. She studied Japanese culture intensively. Its tea ceremony called Sado. The incense ceremony named Kodo. The Japanese art of flower arranging known as Kado and Japanese dance. Japanese culture is the base from which she works. I had the impression Satori had a clear mission to explain her fragrances and Japanese culture to people coming from other cultures. Part of our talk was in explaining aspects of Japanese culture to me which I found very interesting. Satori explained the idea behind her five fragrances as well: Wasanbon, Sakura, Satori, Iris Homme and Hana Hiraku.


Wasanbon is a special refined Japanese sugar. The Wasanbon sweets are called Rakugan. They are hand made in several stages. The Wasanbon sugar has a less sweet, more creamy and buttery taste than ordinary refined sugar. Rakugan are used for the Japanese Matcha (green tea) tea ceremony as part of the tea ritual. First you take a small piece of Rakugan in your mounth afterwards you take a sip of Japanese Matcha tea. In this way combining two kinds of flavours, sweet and bitter.

Satori explaned she created Wasanbon Eau de Parfum as a not too loud dry gourmand fragrance. A scent for adults unlike other very sweet bombs which can be found nowadays. This fragrance is meant to be gentle, happy, innocent and sophisticated. Satori uses this fragrance on moments she wants to take care of herself. To me personally Wasanbon Eau de Parfum is a pink light fluffy scent. Wasanbon is not too sweet, quite delicate and girly.

Notes: Lemon, muscat grape, mimosa, muguet, almond, sugar, honey, vanilla, iris, guaiacwood


Sakura means cherry blossom. Contrary to what one would think the cherry blossom in itself is not a blossom which smells fruity. Sakura eau de parfum is supposed to bring a feeling of happiness, delightfulness and innocence. The joyful feeling of spring arriving after winter. Cherry blossoms filling the air with their pink petals all at once, creating a beautiful pink carpet when they fall on the ground. Satura eau de parfum contains incense, spice and sandalwood. It wears very close to the skin. I really like this scent and could fully wear it.

Notes: cherry blossom, shiso, perilla frutescens, cherry, jasmine, rose, moss, musk, woods, incense


Satori is the best seller in the Tokyo perfume salon. This fragrance is based on the Japanese ceremony of incense, Kado. In this scent the 5 Japanese elements of taste are combined, spicy, bitter, sweet, sour and salty.  Kyara is known to have these 5 tastes. Satori eau de parfum was formulated based on the image of it. Kyara is a not very dominant precious agarwood and more refined than the oud we are used to in Western perfumery.  Cinnamon and clove are used for the spicy notes, cocoa for the bitter, vanilla adding sweetness, oakmoss, cypress and bitter orange for its sour and saltyness.

I find Satori to be the most outspoken one of all her fragrances. Some compared it to the original Shiseido Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois. Not being an expert on vintage Feminite du Bois I am curious how these two compare to each other. From all fragrances I like this one best together with Sakura. It is a very refined, warm cozy scent. If Satori eau de parfum had a colour it would be the autumnal colours of dark red and brown leaves of a tree like Indian Summer colours of leaves. The texture which comes to mind is very thin but warming wool.

Notes: Bergamot, coriander, cinnamon, clove, cacao, vanilla, frankincense, sandalwood, oak moss, agarwood (oud)

Iris Homme

The iris flower is only used in Japan for decoration and not in fragrances. It is used to decorate kimono’s, paintings and in haiku poems and very much part of Japanese culture.  Iris Homme starts with a sparkling citrus note of lemon and bergamot to change to a dryer powdery heart with iris and finish with a woody amber/sandalwood base. Although not mentioned in the official notes it has galbanum and elemi as well. Iris Homme wears quite close to the skin. I find it quite a refined scent for men to wear.

Notes: bergamot, cardamon, orange flower, iris (nioi-ayame), violet, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, light musc

Hana Hiraku

Hana Hiraku is the latest release of Satori. It means blooming flower and was made as a Magnolia scent. The fragrance has an interesting combination of sweet melon, creamy jasmine and salty german blue camomille. The blue camomille was added to add a miso and soy sauce note. The Japanese magnolia tree (Magnolia Obovate) smells like melon, creamy and at some stage even carnal. The carnal note was added by tuberose absolute. Hana Hiraku is meant to portray the emotion of a new beginning after wintertime.

Hanu Hiraku was the most challenging fragrance for me as I am not too fond of melon as an accord. It struck me as very odd in the beginning and not as refined as the other Satori perfumes. But after learning the explanation of the fragrance of the Magnolia Obovate tree I understand why the pronounced melon accord was added. The flowers of the magnolia tree I know near our Dutch garden smell more like soap which is very different I imagine from the Magnolia Obovate.

Notes: bergamot, galbanum, melon, magnolia, iris, jasmine, tuberose, rose, ylang ylang, blue camomille, miso, shoyu, guiac wood, opoponax resin, sandal wood, bees wax

Most of these Eau de Parfums are very subtle and quite exquisite fragrances. I would not wear all of them but I could certainly wear Sakura during Spring and Satori with colder weather in Wintertime. You have to take a quiet meditative moment to fully appreciate these fragrances and let them sink in to value them. Before buying a bottle, I would recommend to sample them at ease at home as these fragrances need their time and attention to be valued. Samples can be bought online at The Perfume Lounge in Amsterdam.

I would like to thank Satori Osawa and The Perfume Lounge for the opportunity for this interview.

Disclosure: all photographs were made by Esperessence, the samples which were used for this article, were a gift from The Perfume Lounge I did not get any compensation to write this article. More information can be found on: The Perfume Lounge and Parfum Satori.

Perfume Review: 4160 Tuesdays Silk, Lace and Chocolate

Cornwallis Art

4160 Tuesdays Silk Lace and Chocolate does not remind me of an exquisite hand made Belgium expensive chocolate. But more of a large box filled with heart shaped chocolates with an artificial strawberry filling. The chocolate box would be bought at your local super market, not an exclusive chocolate shop. The idea of the Mon Cheri chocolates we used to have here, but instead of a cherry, filled with liquid strawberry. Not too complicated or sofisticated but still very playfull and fun. A nice gift depending on your taste for chocolates and perfume. It would be a great eau de parfum for an introduction to perfume for little kids as well.

4160 Tuesdays Silk, Lace and Chocolate

I really enjoyed the chocolate scent in this perfume but found the strawberry to be too artificial and plasticky almost. But I can imagine others will enjoy it. It is not too sweet for a gourmand and edible fragrance. It was originally made for Valentine’s day as a limited edition but can be bought now online.

Notes: Cocoa absolute, strawberry, bergamot (Luckyscent)

What 4160 Tuesdays says about Silk, Lace and Chocolate: It’s made with cocoa absolute, such an intense chocolate scent that it almost knocks you down with pleasure. Try this instead of eating a chocolate bar.

4160 Tuesdays advent Calender

Did you try Silk, Lace and Chocolate? Or other 4160 Tuesdays fragrances? Do you have a favorite one?

Strawberry painting: made by Mary-Clare Cornwallis

MariaLux/MariaL Mogadess Parfum

All I want for Christmas is you

MariaLux Mogadess is a warm, rich luxurious spicy gourmand fragrance inspired by the riches of the earth with notes reminding me of soft almond nougat (Spanish turron) and oranges infused in chocolate. The notes make it a perfect Christmas fragrance and suited to wear on colder winter days. Mogadess means sacred. Although not groundbreaking, it is an interesting abundant fragrance which changes significantly during the day.

The fragrance was madeimage by Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri and introduced in 2014. The beautiful bottle was designed by his wife Dutch designer Lilian Driessen and inspired by classic perfume bottles. Underneath the bottle the frase is written Everything I own smells of you. Each fragrance from the MariaLux line has a different text on the top of the box. The brand name MariaLux has been changed into MariaL due to legal (probably intellectual property law) reasons.

What does it do ?  It gives me the feeling of wanting to go out and have a luxurious party in a red evening dress.

The text on the bottle Everything I own smells of you reminds me of the song All I want for Christmas is you from the movie Love  Actually. Both Mogadess and Love Actually are very appropriate for Christmas.

Composition according to First in Fragrance: Top note: Orange Blossom, Red Pepper, Bitter Orange, Strawberry Heart Note: Marigold, Rosewood, Benzoin, Cacao, Cinnamon Bark Base Note: Cardamon, Cedarwood, Coriander, Tarragon, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Ambergris, Vanilla

Origin of sample: my own

Photograph: my own