Ormonde Jayne Tolu Scented Candle

Ormonde Jayne perfumery is a London based fragrance company. It was founded by Linda Pilkington. She says about its foundation: ” my goal was to combine elements which define true elegance, the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient.” Ormonde Jayne has a collection of 16 fragrances at this moment including her Four Corners of the Earth Collection with the exquisite Nawab of Oudh.

Tolu is sold as an eau de parfum, body lotion, shower gel, bath oil and a scented candle. From time to time Tolu is offered as an extrait, as a gift with purchase. I have the eau de parfum, extrait (pure perfume) and scented candle.

Tolu is a precious Peruvian tree resin used as a raw perfumery material. The eau de parfum Tolu was created in 2002. At the beginning it smells quite rich, deep and powerful but light and fresh at the same time. Later it becomes more ambery, golden, smooth and sweet. The fragrance has the structure of caramel. It is suited for colder weather. I found the extrait – scented candle to have more similarities than the eau de parfum and the scented candle. The pure perfume and candle are both more amber and golden than the fresher eau de parfum. My personal impression is that the extrait and scented candle are more concentrated on the original balsamic base notes and fresher lighter herbal (top) notes have been added to the eau de parfum.

The painting The Golden Temple captures the essence of the scented candle beautifully; golden from the frankincense, orange from the orange blossom, the caramel smoothness from the tolu and amber.

THE Golden Temple

The large scented candle holds 260 grams of wax according to the Ormonde Jayne website and has 2 wicks to burn very evenly in my experience. If you burn it one hour it scents a large room. I bought my candle during an online sale last year, used it during the winter time and just started using it again. It is one of the best scented candles I own but comes with quite a price tag (48 British Pound Sterling / 60 euro). I would recommend to wait for an online sale and I understand one is coming up very soon. So check the Ormonde Jayne website if you plan to buy one. To me burning this candle is the ultimate indulgence. It would make an excellent Christmas or Sinterklaas gift as well.

Tolu candles can be bought in London or in Ormonde Jayne’s online store. More info at www.ormondejayne.com

Notes: (according to the official Ormonde Jayne website)

Top notes: Juniper Berry, Orange Blossom, and clary sage

Heart notes: Orchid, Moroccan Rose and Muguet

Base notes: Tolu, Tonka Bean, Golden Frankincense and Amber

Fragrance Family: Deep Oriental (Michael Edwards) Oriental Woody (Fragantica)

Perfumer: Geza Schoen

Painting: The Golden Temple by Henriette Hackenberg www.henriette-hackenberg.nl

Disclosure: all products mentioned in this article were bought by me

Ineke Chemical Bonding

Just bite the sour apple

When I first heard the name Chemical Bonding I was a bit put off by its name. Bonding and chemical sound a bit sterile to me. The image I get is a chemical lab not the romantic idea of two people bonding. Chemical Bonding is based on two people bonding and alchemy as well. Chemical Bonding was launched in 2006.

I bought Ineke’s beautiful Deluxe Sample Collection Set with all of Ineke’s 7 perfumes. One of the samples was Chemical Bonding. The discovery set is an excellent way to get introduced to her whole collection. All of Ineke’s perfumes are categorized by alphabet, an abecedary as Ineke calls it herself. Ineke Ruhland has her own small perfume house in San Francisco.

When I first scented Chemical Bonding I did not like its opening note. It was (and still is) too harsh and loud for me. It smells like sour citrus. Ineke calls it a citrus cocktail herself. Or it could be the tea note in the beginning as I do not like tea perfumes, such as Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert or Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Blanc. After this loud sour citrus burst, surprisingly I got a more mellow clean musky base. Very pleasant and fresh. In Dutch you have a saying to bite through the sour apple to get something nice afterwards. In English the saying is to bite the bullit. It is like this in Chemical Bonding, after the sour part the really nice part of the perfume starts to kick in !

The principle of Chemical Bonding of two opposites attracting can be found within this perfume in the citrus and the more clean mellow musk. I found this quite interesting. The Fragrantica website classifies Chemical Bonding as a floral fruity and Michael Edwards as a crisp citrus fruity. Personally I would classify it as a musky citrus.

ineke1

Some find Chemical Bonding too mainstream and in general reactions are mixed. Personally I prefer to wear Chemical Bonding on a hot day. On these days it works best on my skin. It smells even better sprayed on clothing. Chemical Bonding will not end up in my top 10 list but I like to wear it from time to time in summer.

Ineke Ruhland just introduced a new perfume to her abecedary, H Hothouse Flower. This based is based on gardenia, one of my favorite flower scents in perfume. I really look forward to trying her interpretation of the gardenia flower.

Notes according to Ineke leaflet with Discovery Box and website:

Top: smooth citrus cocktail, tea, blackberry

Middle: dewy peony

Base: vetiver, amber, powdery musk

Longevity: very good for a citrus, several hours

Sillage: stays quite close to my skin

Origin of sample: my own  

Photograph: my own  

Originally published July 27th, 2012

Update November 26th, 2014

 

Youtube: Chemical Bonding by Ineke Ruhland

Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre

imageSome perfumes should come with a warning as in a Thai restaurant saying how spicy it is.  If perfumes would come with 1, 2 or 3 peppers, referring to its spicyness, the eau de parfum Cinabre would have 3 peppers.

Cinabre is a spicy rose perfume made by Maria Candida Gentile in 2009. The combination of the rose with the black pepper in the beginning makes it very daring.  It gives the perfume a bite. This perfume is not a light tea rose but a strong powdery spicy hot rose. While wearing Cinabre, I feel daring and courageous. One would not think a rose perfume could do this.

Maria Candida Gentile is a female independent Italian perfumer with her own perfume house. She has developed 6 classic perfumes and 4 exclusive perfumes for her own line. All her perfumes are available online.

I have been wearing Cinabre for some days now and am struck by its beauty and originality. The bottle and perfume might look and smell very classic.  But the perfume has a very modern touch to it. Like a Burberry trench coat classic but modern at the same time.

At first I got a very powdery rose scent mixed with black pepper. After 15 to 20 minutes the pepper subdued and the scent became a light rose powdery perfume like smelling an expensive rose powdery soap. The soap scent subdues into a more creamy soft sweet rose after more or less an hour.

Notes according to the Maria Candida Gentile website are: black pepper, ginger, rose baies, Splendens rose, Moroccan Rose, benzoin, opoponax and vanilla. The perfume group is rich floral according to Michael Edwards.

The spicyness in this rose perfume brought to mind the image of being dressed completely in black and adding a very red bright scarf or wearing no makeup and adding red lipstick. Your complete image changes completely.

image

According the official website of Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre means dragon blood, a crimson red resin from the Dragon Blood tree. Dragon blood was used for alchemy, health cure, for violins in the 18th century and used as lipstick.  The dragon blood tree is quite rare nowadays and grows primarily on an exotic island, Socotra in the Indian Ocean and is part of Yemen. The label of the very classic Cinabre perfume bottle is crimson red. Beautiful. For rose lovers, this eau de parfum is a must try. If you like Guerlain Nahema or Caron Parfum Sacre, give Cinabre a try. You could see Cinabre as a very distant little foreign niece of Nahema.

Coco Chanel said that women should not smell like roses but I think that even Coco would not mind to this modern interpretation of a rose perfume.

Origin of bottle my own

1. Photograph made by Pierre Javelle and Akiko Ida (Miniam Food Creative)

2. Picture was made by Rene Gruau

3. Painting made by Henriette Hackenberg, www.henriette-hackenberg.nl A card from this painting is available on her website as well.

Originally published Octobre 2012

Updated and re edited: November 25th, 2014

The Maria Candida Gentile Collection consists now of:  the collection Flight of the Bumblebee with three fragrances which was introduced in 2014, 8 eau de parfum the latest being Noir Tropical, 4 pure perfumes and 2 home fragrances.