22 Perfumers, A Creative Proces book by Clara Molloy

One of the most interesting perfume books I have come across this year is 22 Perfumers, A Creative process. In this book 22 Perfumers are interviewed, including Olivier Cresp, Francis Kurkdjian, Francoise Caron and Jacques Cavallier. Although it costs 69 euro excluding postage, 22 Perfumers is really worth its price.


The book provides information you cannot find elsewhere as most of the perfumers in the book rarely give interviews. The ones I enjoyed most were with the interview with Calice Becker where she explains about the creation of Dior J´Adore and her special relationship with this perfume.

The interview with Sophia Grosjman impressed me most. She is the perfumer of many popular fragrances like Lancome Tresor, Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Eternity Calvin Klein and Estee Lauder White Linen. The life story of Sophia Grosjman is truly amazing, being born in the former Soviet Union, fleeing to Poland to immigrate in the United States, starting to work at IFF in New York and becoming a female perfumer. Her story was very inspiring and made want me to scent her fragrances again. Perfumes like Tresor, Paris and Eternity which have become so familiar to us as they are sold in local drugstores nowadays. The way they became famous, was quite special on its own.

Fragrances from the television commercials like J´Adore, Paris and Tresor are put into a whole new perspective by these interviews. They have added depth and a new dimension to them.

Did I miss any perfumers in the book ? Yes, two of my favorite perfumers: Pierre Bourdon perfumer of many fragrances but one of his most famous Davidoff Cool Water and Eduard Flechier, perfumer of Dior Poison. But the list of renowned and gifted perfumers gives a good insight on its own of the work of these 22 perfumers including Maurice Roucel, Christine Nagel and Olivier Cresp.

Interviewed perfumers are: Michel Almairac, Calice Becker, Carlos Benaim, Francoise Caron, Jacques Cavallier, Olivier Cresp, Francois Demachy, Jean-Michel Duriez, Jean-Claude Ellena, Sophia Grosjman, Jean-Paul Guerlain, Francis Kurkdjian, Sophie Labbe, Mathilde Laurent, Alienor Massenet, Annick Menardo, Alberto Morillas, Christine Nagel, Jacques Polge, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel.

22 Perfumers can be ordered via the website of Memo Fragrances. The book comes in French and English. It was printed in October 2007.


Disclosure: own acquisition

Published: August 23, 2013

Updated: March 29, 2015

Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose

RosinesectretderoseRosine is a French perfume house originally founded in 1911 by de French fashion designer Paul Poiret. Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer to start a perfume house. The perfume house was launched in the same year as his sensational soiree inspired by harems of the sultan, The Thousand and Second Night. It must have been the party of the decade as many refer to this party for its extravagance and lavishness.

Paul Poirets couture was inspired by the orient, Russia and North Africa and his perfumes had names like Aladin and Maharadjah. The perfume house was named after Paul Poiret eldest daughter Rosine who died not much later in 1915 from an ear infection. Paul Poiret served in the First World War but after his return his designs became out of fashion and his fashion house had to close in 1929, leaving Paul Poiret impoverished. Some original Rosine fragrances can now be scented at the ‘perfume library’, the Osmotheque in Versailles.

The current Les Parfums de Rosine Perfume House was founded in 1991. Most of the Rosine perfumes are inspired by the rose theme. Secrets de Rose was introduced in 2009. The inspiration for this perfume came from the rare black rose.

The notes according to the Rosine website are:


Top note : Plum, Liquorice, Rose essence, Bitter Orange, Saffron
Heart note : Magnolia, Ylang ylang, Rose absolute, White Jasmine, Seeds of cumin
Base note : Sandalwood, Himalaya oak moss, Amber resin, Labdanum, MuskPerfumer: Francois Robert


Secrets de Rose is a very well blended powdery rose. It is natural but at the same time stylish and with a little spicy punch, not a natural light fresh English tea rose but more a modern classic rose. Although some websites refer to Secret de Rose as seducing I do not find it to be tempting at all. More a stylish velvet uncomplicated rose, very well suited for office wear. The powder note in Secrets de Rose reminds me of Kirsten Dunst in the movie Marie Antoinette.

What does it do ? And how does it make you feel ?

It eases and makes you feel more peaceful. Perfect for work or when you feel a bit stressed. But it keeps you sharp and focused.

It makes you feel like the picture made by Rene Gruau for Dioressence. The picture suits Secrets de Rose more than it does vintage Dioressence. If there is one perfume I would call seducing it would be the vintage animalic Dioressence made by the father of the perfumer of Secrets de Rose Guy Robert.

Although I am fond of rose perfumes I find it hard to find a rose perfume I really like. Secrets de Rose is one of my favourites at this moment and it was instant love. Many perfume bloggers are writing about rose perfume at this moment. Secrets de Rose has not gotten much attention lately. When it was introduced in 2009 it got some very positive reviews though. If you like rose and want a perfume with a little twist, Secrets de Rose is worth a try.

Try it if you like: Yves Rocher Rose Absolue, People of the Labyrinths A.Maze

Longevity:  medium, up to 4,5 hours

Sillage: moderate, stays quite close to your skin

Fragrance family (via Fragrances of the World): Floral Oriental

All fragrances mentioned in this article are my own acquisition.

Originally published: February 24, 2014

Updated: March 28, 2015



Picture 1: Paul Poiret 1920 Theatre Costumes ”Paris qui Jazz” Revue, José de Zamora Designer

Picture 2: Kirsten Dunst in Marie Antoinette

Picture 3: Rene Gruau for Dior

April Aromatics Precious Woods Eau de Parfum Review

A walk in the forestPrecious Woods invites us to take a walk in a forest. German perfumer Tanja Bochnig was inspired to make this fragrance when she scented an Indian forest after the rain. I believe she succeeded very well in passing us the scent, image and experience of an actual walk in a wood. It is a scent I tend to use when I would like to wander in a forest but I am not able to, especially during a cold winter. Which is interesting as I have never been to an Indian wood but still get the impression my need of a walk is fulfilled by using this fragrance.

According to the official April Aromatics website Precious Woods is made of 100 percent natural extracts. I have used natural perfumes before which either did not last at all or gave the simplistic impression of just putting two or three essential oils together on a kitchen table. Fortunately I have no longevity problems with Precious Woods nor do I get the impression everyone could have made this fragrance.

What does it do ?

Wearing it makes me feel very down to earth and grounded. I find it a very appropriate fragrance to calm me as well. Looking at the ingredients this is not surprising as one of the main ingredients is sandalwood. Sandalwood fragrance has been used by all Indian spiritual traditions (Brahmin, Buddhist and Hindu) to induce a calm state of mind.

Precious Woods edp is worth a try if you like woody fragrances, are looking for a calming fragrance or more natural fragrances.

Do you use a fragrance to calm you ? Does it work ?

Ingredients according to the April Aromatics website: 100% natural extracts of Sandelwood/India, Sandelwood/Neukaledonia, CederwoodVirginia/USA, Cederwood/Himalaya, Cistus Vetiver Bourbon, Patchouli/Indonesia, Buddha Wood, white Sage, organic alcohol.

Fragrance family: Woody/ Classical Woody (via Fragantica)

Origin of bottle: my own

Photography by L’Esperessence